I had same problem with my 93 non-sc. I had new plugs and wires too. Turned out to be coil(*). Willwren said this is indicative of ignition... so, per my FSM...
The quick check to find the cylinder is:
- -Start engine; allow to stabilize; unplug IAC motor (not to exceed 2 min.); use insulated pliers (AND a rubber glove is great too); pull one plug wire off at the coil end, at a time while listening for miss to get worse or stay the same.
-If the miss gets worse, that is NOT the cylinder
-If it stays the same, that is the indicator of the bad cylinder
-You can have more than one.
-Mine was 2 bad coils. But they had been passing the resistance checks until the morning I went out and it started missing after I started it. That is when the coils completely went out.
-This is not required, but if you have a volt-ohm meter, you can check across the output side of each coil. They should all be close to equal. Of course, if it reads open, the coil is shot.
Something else that might help find the baddy; when I would pull the wire off a GOOD coil terminal, I would observe lots of arcing from the terminal back to the coil body. On pulling off a wire from a BAD coil, there would be NO arcing. In both cases, the coil would only be bad on one side; the other side worked fine.
1993 Red SSE - Bone-Stock except for High Perf. Power Antenna-Original Owner. Less than 130K - Love of my Wife
'05 Magnum R/T Hemi - Bunches of classic VW Beetles... and one "not quite stock."