Symptom: Has no power to it. All other locks work. When I manually unlock the door all 3 other locks unlock with power. When I hit the remote once to unlock only the driver door I hear the relay near the passenger side click but I hear nothing at the drivers door.

I have followed techinfo and my driver side door panel is now completely off. I'm hoping to fix this today. Whats the next step and what exactly am I looking for in this door panel? Thanks!

Also the door lock did work before then it started to wear out. It would only work sometimes and then eventually quit. I remember Willwren talking about the actuator?

There is a possibilitiy it'* the actuator. However you should have power and no actuation for it to be an actuator.

If you have no power..I'd trace back the lead to the relay. That way you can find out if the contacts in the relay are dirty and not working for that one actuator.

Is the relay inside the door panel? I'm completely new to this - sorry for needing my hand held through the descriptions. Also all the other locks have power and you can hear a small click on the passenger when I go to unlock just the drivers door with the remote.

I'm not sure where it is..on the passenger side..follow the click.

Well I found the first click. The one that clicks for all the locks. Disconnected it and cleaned the contacts. However I still heard another small click above the kick plate that only clicks for when I remote activate unlocking the driver door lock only. I can't seem to find it. What exactly am I looking for here to find out what the problem is? I find the clicks, clean connections then what? What should I be looking at with the door panel off as well? Solenoid, if so whats it look like?

Here are some pictures. I hope they will help aid you in seeing my problem. I would really like to fix this.


This is a picture of the actuator. Those green and white wires look like a possible connector.

This is a picture of above the actuator near the actual door lock.

This picture is the top part of the actuator, revealing an electrical connector. This is my plan of action here.

The rod that rides along the door.

This is the relay above the kick plate on the passenger side. It clicks for the remote unlock of the driver side lock and all other locks. I cleaned it - the connection looked fine.

The front side of the above relay.

The fuse panel on the passenger side. See the top black boxes? I believe these are also relays as their is a click coming from them (or atleast near them) ONLY when I remote activate to unlock the driver door lock only.

My plan of action atm is to clean those electrical connections near the actuator and then perhaps check for a current on them? Any chance of a wiring grid around here somewhere?

Did you test the relay for continutity and not only function?

It'* possible to have a click w/o connection.

What wires would I hook up to to check?

I tested the two electrical connections going to the actuator for voltage. The green and white wire one would give a different voltage for lock, driver unlock, and all door unlock. The connector at the top of the actuator gave me a constant voltage reading which only changed slightly when I locked the doors. What readings am I looking for here?

If the connections have voltage and I hear the relays click, wouldn't that prove continuity and function? Now whether or not its sending the right voltage is another story. Does anyone here know if those two electrical connections are the only ones involved here? I saw a few more wires leading up to a white plastic piece. My guess is that those are for the green light that lights up the keyhole.

PM me with an email address if you want a wiring diagram.

Dealer wants $87 for the actuator, $78 for the labor. lol yeah right.

Does anyone know how to remove the actuator? I do not see any screws or bolts and its connected to many different rods.

The three torx head bolts are on the outside of the door..or the door jamb side. IIRC you need to take out the whole latch assembly to get to the actuator.

Also remove the other torx head to move the window rail that is in the way.