1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

USING SEALER ON INTAKE MANIFOLD?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-07-2003, 08:24 PM
  #11  
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
willwren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
willwren is on a distinguished road
Default

Same goes for all those other gaskets. Do the upper intake and the injector.
Old 02-08-2003, 10:55 AM
  #13  
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
DeathRat's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edmonton, AB Canada
Posts: 2,621
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
DeathRat is on a distinguished road
Default

Originally Posted by jeffrey10x2
ok, here is the deal with the RTV on the intakes.
with almost all of GM V6 and V8 engines, if the intake gasket set includes end seals, throw them away !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! they will defintly leak
use RTV on the corners and run a 1/4"-3/8" bead where the end seals should be.
also as a rule of thumb. i always put a thin film where the water ports are in the head and on the intake too.
and one more thing before i forget to tell you. get teflon sealant and make sure you put some on the threads of the intake bolts. this will prevent oil from coming through the threads of the bolts.

if you look at the newer GM engines, you will see that they use alot of RTV when they assemble them at the factory. i did head gaskets on a 3.1 this past week and the end seals on the intake were RTV . FACTORY!!!!
they use it for everything from oilpan gaskets to valve cover gaskets
hope this helped
Doing this "throwing away the end seals" will ONLY cause MORE trouble! BUT it'* YOUR MONEY if you want to the exact same job TWICE! GM doesn't include any gasket in a kit UNLESS it'* supposed to be used! Trust me on this one, as I even have to order EXTRA gaskets/seals at times to actually complete a job! I do about a min of 1/day at work of 3800'* and about 3/day at work on 3100'* & 3/week on 3400'*! But then again "What do I know" I'm just a GM Partsman & Ex-Mechanic!
Old 02-08-2003, 12:56 PM
  #14  
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
willwren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
willwren is on a distinguished road
Default

Jeffrey, I'm going to have to disagree with you 100% on this one. We have cars here with well over 100,000 miles and higher that are dry as a bone. Those end seals are the most critical. Because these seals are at the union of 4 pieces.....the block, both heads, and the lower intake, I wouldn't take the chance of NOT using the factory end seals. They work very well. I just did this to a 93 L27.

Using RTV on the mating surfaces of the upper intake where the water passages are is an even worse idea. A small layer of RTV in an area that doesn't actually touch, and with 2 dis-similar materials that expand and contracts at different rates is asking for failure. That RTV will delam and allow coolant to wick.

The factory seals on these engines are very well designed. The best I've seen yet. I'm betting that motor you saw had a few hands besides GM in it. Don't be fooled by this.

There are some things GM didn't get right......the plastic intake is an obvious one. the 195° thermostat is another, but GM did that for emissions reasons that were regulated. The factory seals and gaskets, however, GM got right. No question.

This isn't intended to be inflammatory. We don't always agree on everything around here, but if we don't discuss topics like this one, we don't learn.
Old 02-08-2003, 03:40 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
DeathRat's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edmonton, AB Canada
Posts: 2,621
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
DeathRat is on a distinguished road
Default

On the Intake Bolts at the block surface according to GM, Loctite "Blue" should be used! The only "other" place on the ntake that requires any form of compound on the threads is the T-Stat Housing bolts, there I use Teflon Pipe Sealer with PST!
Old 02-08-2003, 03:42 PM
  #16  
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
willwren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
willwren is on a distinguished road
Default

I wouldn't WANT to use RTV instead of the factory seals, even if it was a good idea. That would be a pain in the ***. The OEM gaskets and seals are a snap to install.
Old 02-08-2003, 04:18 PM
  #17  
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
willwren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
willwren is on a distinguished road
Default

I forgot that one too, and just went through it all! Doing mine next weekend. That SC looks a bit heavier than Josh'* intake......
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LEFTYGOLFGUY
1992-1999
7
03-02-2007 12:58 PM
theJMFC
Detailing & Appearance
20
11-02-2005 05:07 PM
BonEvilSSEi
Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning
5
06-23-2004 09:07 AM
anthonyv62
General GM Chat
4
05-31-2003 01:31 AM



Quick Reply: USING SEALER ON INTAKE MANIFOLD?



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:44 AM.