I just found it wouldn't start. I did get some slight firing, like the old cars on a cold winter day when they flooded out.

I looked at a plug. Wet.

I started to put in the old plugs I had taken out when I put in the current iridium Delco plugs. But I'll take all the current wet plugs out and spin her a few times to do like you said...
I'll put in the old plugs. Run a while and then put in new plugs--hoping it will start with the old previous set of plugs..

When it failed it had just started running rough after about a 1/2 mile trip and turning a corner, probably taking in more coolant off the bottom of the plenum area. The CEL came on and it limped home about 1/2 miles. But it ran better on way home after CEL came on...

I found that 5 of the plugs were wet and oily black, probably the oiliness is coolant. #6 plug was black sooty.

Is there any way to clean the plugs? Chemicals? Air intake cleaner? Toothbrush? Brass brusH?

It runs like a champ. Smooth. No big cloud of water/coolant out the back so it must not have been ingesting too much that it didn't vaporize instead of pooling.

The check engine light is on but it'* not running in limp mode.

In the old days, when we used to do things like cleap up the plugs, re-gap, and reuse, we'd clean them up with a little carb cleaner (intake will do fine) wire brush them and put 'em back in. They also sold a little machine to sand blast them clean.

The intake developed a faster leak quickly in the last couple of weeks. Maybe as the engine ran with higher pressure as the outside air warmed up. I had planned to do the replacement myself, but wasn't prepared; I was waiting for early summer.

The job requires little doing really hard things.. The injector removal was new to me. They do wiggle and loosen like someone posted. If you reuse old seals they'll slip back in easier. If you put on new seals, use motor oil on them and get them started and then apply your body weight downward on each one working from one end. They will sort of snap in. I did clean around the opening to prevent dirt from getting carried in on the seal.

I bought the Dorman plenun with the replacement smaller diameter tubes. The 800 tech help at Dorman that the customer service people can connect you to or have call you back is 110%. They explained everything about getting the replacement EGR tube to stick since I had a slightly oversized hole in the LIM. He went through a list of things to do right including being sure about the seals on the PCV, which I already knew about. He answered my questions about the lower intake seals. The plenum is guaranteed for life, grin. The company ranks up with the Delta faucets and original Rubbermaid company (Little Tykes and kitchen stuff) for quality of customer service through techs.

This job could have been done in one day if I had had any experience other than plugs on how the parts were put together on the motor. It is well designed as to how things are routed and fitted. Nothing was a real hindrance to the removal. other than the bracket that holds the far end of the throttle body. That rotates and is a slide on slot for the bottom screw holding it to the LIM.

Engine light went off after third restart on the motor. Yes, there is a God! Will need a new set of plugs if I don't try the cleaned up iridium $8 plugs again. Am running on earlier set of 101s. Changed oil after running for about 10 minutes total drive time.

Good job! Now with it running, if you don't have a scantool, I would take it in to Autozone or Advance and let them scan it for you. What you will be interested in the most will be your O2 sensor readings. I found mine had gone way south after my intake failed on a 96 I previously owned.