We oulled the codes and got 17 41 and 58. We had all the coils and the ignition module checked all were okay. We pout in new crankshaft sensor. Same problem random dying. One time the car will start and drive fine and the next time dead as a door nail. Called the local dealship and they want me to buy a new ignition module. The same one they checked and said was okay. I could really use some suggestions. Is there a way to override the pass key system. They said that could be causing no fuel to the car if there is a problem with that per code 58??

Thanks
Dawn

If the Cam sensor signal is lost, the ICM won't know what to do. I'd suspect the cam sensor at this point. Has it been changed yet? Both the cam sensor and the crank sensor are critical inputs to the spark reference circuit. The cam sensor also provides inputs to the injectors.

Code 58 is Vats. Have you tried a spare key? Had a new one made by a locksmith (there are only 12 different resistances). Or simply try cleaning the contacts on the key with rubbing alcohol and a cotton swab, and the same thing for the contacts in the ignition switch itself.

Actually, only the crank signal is critical. You may have noticed on your harmonic balancer (which we have all changed) that there were two setss of rings with spaces. One is a 3X and the other is a 6X (or something like that). The hall effect sensor (cam sensor) is only required to signal the fuel injectors to fire within the first revolution of the engine during cranking. This facilitates quicker starting. The engine actually times itself off of the crank sensor. The signal (AC) is conditioned in the ICM to DC then sent to the PCM.

My mother-inlaws Bonneville SE (1990) lost the cam signal out of the ICM which set off the Check Engine light. The car runs fine and the length of the crank time is only marginally longer and she doesn't even notice it at all. I told her to leave it as it is until the ICM fails completely. It has been 5 years.

If you're referring to VATS here, it won't shut down the car after it'* running. The worst that can happen _while_ you're driving is that your Security light will come on, and even that can only occur if the circuit through the little resistor chip in your ignition key is lost for a full uninterrupted 60 seconds. In other words, I don't think VATS has anything to do with your problem.

had new keys made and madew no diff in the problem. we are going to change the cam sensor this weekend and see if that resolves problem. I will keep you posted

Before you do anything else:

1. Disconnect your battery for 30 minutes. Reconnect after that.

2. Start and drive your car at least 5 or 6 times.

3. Check for codes again.

I would also suspect that a Crank sensor (as opposed to cam sensor) would cause your symptoms. I just want to see if the codes will duplicate.

My GM drivability book said to check the PCM ground first on an intermitten
stalling problem.
Its located at the engine block below the #2 cylinder (firwall side).