Throttle does nothing...
#1
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Thread Starter
Throttle does nothing...
And no, it'* not the normal "nothing" out of an L27..
Happened 2x. My apartment parking lot is at the bottom of a hill, and on the way to training camp last week i had an issue with power delivery. Fired car up, and around 30 seconds after the car had been running i turned up the hill, and was doing about 15-20 MPH. Accelerator did NOTHING, the car stayed @ constant RPM for about 4-5 seconds, and finally picked up again.
Same issue today, car had been driven for about 4 miles to work, parked there for 30 min, and was coming back on the freeway when i got a call and had to turn around. Got off, went to get on the opposite entrance ramp, and it bogged infront of incoming traffic, luckily it picked up like the last time and went on.
What could it be? IAC, TPS, MAF?
I have noticed that the TCC lockup and shifting seems to be somewhat accross the board, this points me to the TPS, but the MAF may be the hiccup, and need a little disconnect-clean-reconnect.
Happened 2x. My apartment parking lot is at the bottom of a hill, and on the way to training camp last week i had an issue with power delivery. Fired car up, and around 30 seconds after the car had been running i turned up the hill, and was doing about 15-20 MPH. Accelerator did NOTHING, the car stayed @ constant RPM for about 4-5 seconds, and finally picked up again.
Same issue today, car had been driven for about 4 miles to work, parked there for 30 min, and was coming back on the freeway when i got a call and had to turn around. Got off, went to get on the opposite entrance ramp, and it bogged infront of incoming traffic, luckily it picked up like the last time and went on.
What could it be? IAC, TPS, MAF?
I have noticed that the TCC lockup and shifting seems to be somewhat accross the board, this points me to the TPS, but the MAF may be the hiccup, and need a little disconnect-clean-reconnect.
#3
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
With it being inconsistent like that...first ...is this the same tank of gas as the first occurance?... maybe fuel related
TPS could very well be an issue. Maybe a dead spot is developing and you were at that same throttle position both times? I would check the TPS with a multimeter and look for any dropoff.
TPS could very well be an issue. Maybe a dead spot is developing and you were at that same throttle position both times? I would check the TPS with a multimeter and look for any dropoff.
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
How is the idle?
When the tank was at half was this also an issue? Wondering about the Fuel pump?
Usually if the MAf is going bad there will be a code 34.... But if the trans seems shifty, The idle is off, the upshift and downshift have changed you may want to check that TPS... The PCM is very dependant on that TPS
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When the tank was at half was this also an issue? Wondering about the Fuel pump?
Usually if the MAf is going bad there will be a code 34.... But if the trans seems shifty, The idle is off, the upshift and downshift have changed you may want to check that TPS... The PCM is very dependant on that TPS
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#8
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Thread Starter
I'm 99% sure it'* a loose/corroded battery connection.
Was even worse on friday. Friend and I headed up the hill from our complex, and BLAH for abotu 10 seconds. Later it bonged like it was low on gas (half tank) once or twice. NO lights, and voltage appeared to be fine on the voltmeter.
yesterday the car was troubled starting, the bonger was erratic. Car would click similar to being low on juice (but again, irregular). Jiggled the negative cable and viola!!! Also a few times when it did start fine, it clicked once like it was dead before it fired.
Picked up some dilelectric grease, and 2 new battery bolts.. probably get to it tomorrow.
Was even worse on friday. Friend and I headed up the hill from our complex, and BLAH for abotu 10 seconds. Later it bonged like it was low on gas (half tank) once or twice. NO lights, and voltage appeared to be fine on the voltmeter.
yesterday the car was troubled starting, the bonger was erratic. Car would click similar to being low on juice (but again, irregular). Jiggled the negative cable and viola!!! Also a few times when it did start fine, it clicked once like it was dead before it fired.
Picked up some dilelectric grease, and 2 new battery bolts.. probably get to it tomorrow.
#9
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Ahhh, the ol' loose/corroded battery cable bit.
Make sure you check for corrosion under the cable boots also. That seems to be a common area for build up.
Make sure you check for corrosion under the cable boots also. That seems to be a common area for build up.
#10
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Thread Starter
It'* funny cause about 3 weeks ago an employee told me (i'm the mgr) that someone'* car wouldn't start in drive through. I go out, and find it'* an SII SSEi. Ask him what'* going on, and this was his problem. Although is was more on/off, he had NO power inside when it wasn't sitting right.
My new radio got the power lost though. I'll have to set it up all over again..
EDIT: The bolts were $2 for 2, and mine have ben rounding off some, figured it'll be nice for new ones.
My new radio got the power lost though. I'll have to set it up all over again..
EDIT: The bolts were $2 for 2, and mine have ben rounding off some, figured it'll be nice for new ones.