1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Tensioner

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Old 07-21-2004, 11:50 PM
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Default Tensioner

Do i need to buy the whole bracket to change the tensioners or can i jus change them individually?
Old 07-21-2004, 11:54 PM
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According to my GM dealer man, you can only get the full tensioner from GM. However you can buy just the pulley from AC Delco. Also, goodyear is offering a very similar product. And they are metal as opposed to plastic. I got the AC, it was less money.
Old 07-21-2004, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by TelePlayer
According to my GM dealer man, you can only get the full tensioner from GM. However you can buy just the pulley from AC Delco. Also, goodyear is offering a very similar product. And they are metal as opposed to plastic. I got the AC, it was less money.
any links?
Old 07-21-2004, 11:57 PM
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http://www.acdelco.com/

Use it to locate the closest AC Delco dealer. The good thing about Delco parts in general is that they usually will cost you less than dealer parts, and most of them are identical with some exceptions.
Old 07-22-2004, 10:37 AM
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any preformance ones anyone?
Old 07-22-2004, 11:24 AM
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No such thing as a performance idler pulley. Just buy what you can find. From work. Either plastic or aluminum.
Old 07-22-2004, 11:47 AM
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kennginn2k3: good morning
wrens67: Just order a replacement idler from Napa. No such thing as a performance part for that.
kennginn2k3: oh thanks
kennginn2k3: i thought i had to get the whole bracket
wrens67: No, just the pulley itself.
kennginn2k3: but the tensioner is acting up
wrens67: I have one sitting right here on my desk
wrens67: The tensioner itself, or the pulley? Acting up how?
kennginn2k3: tensioner
kennginn2k3: its jerkin back and forth makin a knockin noise
wrens67: Sounds more like something else to me, binding up and making the belt jump. The tensioner jumping may be the symptom, not the root cause. Which belt? Accessory, or SC?
kennginn2k3: sc belt
kennginn2k3: yea
kennginn2k3: it made my belt jump
wrens67: Ok, that'* just the SC and the water pump then. How old is the belt?
kennginn2k3: ok
kennginn2k3: i know wha u gettin at
kennginn2k3: i go get me a new belt today
kennginn2k3: lol
kennginn2k3:
kennginn2k3: i tried to prolong this old belt
kennginn2k3: for the longest
kennginn2k3: but its time for it to go
wrens67: Hey, hold on. I wanna go look under my hood in the lot to visualize this.
wrens67: Gimme 5 or 10.
kennginn2k3: ok
wrens67: Still there, bud?
kennginn2k3: yea
wrens67: You going to Rockford?
kennginn2k3: yea
kennginn2k3: i am goin friday
wrens67: Ok. I want you to hook up with a gearhead or two there. I also need to know if it gets worse or stays the same if your A/C is in Auto or Manual.
kennginn2k3: ac doesnt work
kennginn2k3: i tried clearin the codes
wrens67: I'm suspecting your AC clutch or harmonic balancer is the cause, the jerking idler is the symptom you see.
kennginn2k3: and it wont clear 66 code
wrens67: what codes?
wrens67: AC doesn't work.....now I'm really suspecting the clutch/compressor as the cause of the jerking belt/idler.
wrens67: Oh, ECC codes. Gotcha.
wrens67: I remember.
kennginn2k3: clutch?
wrens67: AC compressor clutch. When the AC works, and is in Auto, it'* what you hear clicking (engaging/disengaging) occasionally.
kennginn2k3: o
wrens67: You can bypass this with a shorter belt. But it'* best to find out what'* wrong for sure first.
kennginn2k3: yea ok
kennginn2k3: i will do that
Old 07-24-2004, 12:07 AM
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Looked at the A/C. There appears to be a leak at the accumulator, that'* why there is the Code 66. O-ring needs to be replaced, system needs to be vacuumed and recharged with R-134a (retrofit) and some ester oil.
Old 07-24-2004, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by fuddyduddy121
Looked at the A/C. There appears to be a leak at the accumulator, that'* why there is the Code 66. O-ring needs to be replaced, system needs to be vacuumed and recharged with R-134a (retrofit) and some ester oil.
R-134a requires PAG oil, not ester oil. Ester oil will not properly mix with R-134a hence the need to vacuum and flush the entire system when doing a retrofit from R-12.

At least I think that'* right...

Cheers,
Old 07-24-2004, 12:48 AM
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PAG oil is only to be used in systems that come with R-134a from the factory. It is not used in retrofits because it is not compatible with existing mineral oil in the R-12 system and it also absorbs moisture too easily.

However ester (or POE) is a good choice because it does not interfere with the old mineral oil in the system.


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