Bosch O2 sensor? (willwren)
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Bosch O2 sensor? (willwren)
I was looking through the site for any tips/tricks on replacing lower intake maifold gasket and valve cover gaskets (still looking if someone could provide links may save me some search time) and came across a "don't use a Bosch O2 sensor" reference. I'm doing a full tune-up and was going to drop in a Bosch O2. Sounds like Bosch is the wrong way to go. What brand(*) is prefered?
Thanks
1995 SSEi
Thanks
1995 SSEi
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i wouldnt recommend it whenever i sell a o2 sensor i get them from ac delco instead of the bosch ones we carry
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My Bosch is one of many that lasted less than 30 days. That was a couple years ago before we really knew, but had a suspicion.
Valve covers are relatively easy, just take off the strut bar and replace the strut bolts before starting (don't move the car with the strut bolts off or loose). Torque specs are in Techinfo.
For the LIM, and the LIM only, you don't have to replace the SC outlet gasket. Take the SC off with the LIM. You'll have to double-nut a stud going through the alt bracket into the nosedrive of the SC.
Also, read the top 10 or so posts in Performance and Brainstorming. Lots of pics of my LIM removed, it'll give you an idea of where the bolts are (they hide). Again, Techinfo has specs for re-assembly.
I suspect you have oil leaks? Use AC Delco or Fel-Pro gasgets only. We've had problems with other brands. The leak is very likely to be the 2 seals under the LIM that mate to the top edges of the block. They erode and leak in the corners where the LIM, heads, and block meet. The new gaskets are improved. Get Chilton'* #28200 at a bare minimum. Other than the Factory Service manuals which many of us have, that'* the best.
Might be a good opportunity to remove and clean your Throttle body (completely disassemble the sensors from it, and clean the MAF filament carefully with a Qtip and alcohol.....not beer.....). Swap in a 180 thermostat, too.
Valve covers are relatively easy, just take off the strut bar and replace the strut bolts before starting (don't move the car with the strut bolts off or loose). Torque specs are in Techinfo.
For the LIM, and the LIM only, you don't have to replace the SC outlet gasket. Take the SC off with the LIM. You'll have to double-nut a stud going through the alt bracket into the nosedrive of the SC.
Also, read the top 10 or so posts in Performance and Brainstorming. Lots of pics of my LIM removed, it'll give you an idea of where the bolts are (they hide). Again, Techinfo has specs for re-assembly.
I suspect you have oil leaks? Use AC Delco or Fel-Pro gasgets only. We've had problems with other brands. The leak is very likely to be the 2 seals under the LIM that mate to the top edges of the block. They erode and leak in the corners where the LIM, heads, and block meet. The new gaskets are improved. Get Chilton'* #28200 at a bare minimum. Other than the Factory Service manuals which many of us have, that'* the best.
Might be a good opportunity to remove and clean your Throttle body (completely disassemble the sensors from it, and clean the MAF filament carefully with a Qtip and alcohol.....not beer.....). Swap in a 180 thermostat, too.
#8
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02
My Bosch 02 is still going strong with 12k on it. Got 30 MPG on my last trip.
Could you guys have hit on a bad batch?
If it goes they are getting it back via the tech rep.
Could you guys have hit on a bad batch?
If it goes they are getting it back via the tech rep.
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Thanks for the tips!
Your correct, oil leaks. Did miss the LIM bolt under the SC bypass, but found it when I couldn't tear the top off the engine . There'* a bolt on the back corner, opposite the SC bypass, under a sensor (I think it'* the ECT), that I took off with an open wrench. I wanted to ask advice on pulling the sensor. Anything to it, isn't mentioned in the SM. Does it need anything for the threads on replacement?
Will be doing all the other work you mention, using Fel-Pro gaskets, 180 thermostat, Autolite 605 plugs, Taylor wires, etc. Other than disconnecting a fair amount wires and hoses, it'* going pretty smoothly. I did pick up a Chilton #28200, much better than the Haynes. Have a bid in on Ebay for the FSM'*, nobody better close-line me . I've got the LIM and front VC off. (Came in for a bite of lunch and to check the site).
I've been using Mobil 1. I know synthetics are thinner then regular oil. Will this hassen leaks? What oil'* do most use?
On cleaning the TB. Should the gasket be replaced? And is Valvoline TB cleaner a good choice?
Hope this isn't aking for too much info, but you guys know your stuff and I like doing it right!
Thanks again
Your correct, oil leaks. Did miss the LIM bolt under the SC bypass, but found it when I couldn't tear the top off the engine . There'* a bolt on the back corner, opposite the SC bypass, under a sensor (I think it'* the ECT), that I took off with an open wrench. I wanted to ask advice on pulling the sensor. Anything to it, isn't mentioned in the SM. Does it need anything for the threads on replacement?
Will be doing all the other work you mention, using Fel-Pro gaskets, 180 thermostat, Autolite 605 plugs, Taylor wires, etc. Other than disconnecting a fair amount wires and hoses, it'* going pretty smoothly. I did pick up a Chilton #28200, much better than the Haynes. Have a bid in on Ebay for the FSM'*, nobody better close-line me . I've got the LIM and front VC off. (Came in for a bite of lunch and to check the site).
I've been using Mobil 1. I know synthetics are thinner then regular oil. Will this hassen leaks? What oil'* do most use?
On cleaning the TB. Should the gasket be replaced? And is Valvoline TB cleaner a good choice?
Hope this isn't aking for too much info, but you guys know your stuff and I like doing it right!
Thanks again