Warped rotors = rythmic steering wiggle?
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Warped rotors = rythmic steering wiggle?
I'm just wondering.
My front rotors (or at least one of them) are in the shape of a potato chip. I have a suspiscion that my right front caliper is sticking (alignment relationship between steering wheel and front wheels is perfect, but the car does pull to the right), as well as possibly leaking from the caliper or the hose (car needs brake fluid top-off every few months, according to previous owner). Which is probably the cause of the major rotor warpage.
The car/steering wheel has a rythmic wiggle when driving down the road. It gets faster as you go faster. It isn't always there though. Usually it appears after you've made a turn. Is this probably my rotors? I've already got new ones...just havent put them in yet.
My front rotors (or at least one of them) are in the shape of a potato chip. I have a suspiscion that my right front caliper is sticking (alignment relationship between steering wheel and front wheels is perfect, but the car does pull to the right), as well as possibly leaking from the caliper or the hose (car needs brake fluid top-off every few months, according to previous owner). Which is probably the cause of the major rotor warpage.
The car/steering wheel has a rythmic wiggle when driving down the road. It gets faster as you go faster. It isn't always there though. Usually it appears after you've made a turn. Is this probably my rotors? I've already got new ones...just havent put them in yet.
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Re: Warped rotors = rythmic steering wiggle?
Originally Posted by Andx0r
I'm just wondering.
My front rotors (or at least one of them) are in the shape of a potato chip. .
My front rotors (or at least one of them) are in the shape of a potato chip. .
#3
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Not just the front brake lines (both sides), but remove and lubricate the caliper bolts on both fronts also.
After that, REPLACE the rotors. Once warped, turning will only buy you VERY little time before they warp again, even if you fix the original issue.
After that, REPLACE the rotors. Once warped, turning will only buy you VERY little time before they warp again, even if you fix the original issue.
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They're already in the trunk I just need to get to the bottom of these other issues first. The tires are almost brand new, so I doubt that those are the issue.
#5
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Break lines and caliper pin lube are CHEAP. Go for that at the same time, replace the rotors and pads, and bleed well.
You should be in good shape.
But before you re-torque your lugs, clean the threads with a wire brush, and put a little oil on them. STAGE-torque or step-torque them. Wheel lug torque can warp a rotor also. We're under-braked.
After cleaning the threads and oiling (for consistent torque on all 10 front lugs), torque to 50 (star pattern), then 75, then 100.
Or something similar (which I wrote too, based on the experiences of other members here):
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=18
Scroll all the way to the bottom for the wheel lugs.
You should be in good shape.
But before you re-torque your lugs, clean the threads with a wire brush, and put a little oil on them. STAGE-torque or step-torque them. Wheel lug torque can warp a rotor also. We're under-braked.
After cleaning the threads and oiling (for consistent torque on all 10 front lugs), torque to 50 (star pattern), then 75, then 100.
Or something similar (which I wrote too, based on the experiences of other members here):
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=18
Scroll all the way to the bottom for the wheel lugs.
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Originally Posted by Andx0r
...The tires are almost brand new, so I doubt that those are the issue...
Does your pulsing in the steering wheel manifest itself at low speeds (almost crawling), without applying the brakes? This is a classic symptom of a broken belt.
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Nah. It doesn't really start until you're up to like 25, or you've just made a turn. Sometimes it goes away after you've just made a turn O_o