Billboost has a few modules and packs.

Also keep in mind that you have two horribly fouled plugs now. Time to change them when you get it firing.

yeah, when changed the spark plugs as we checked them earlier, they were 5 years old....we also changed the fuel fiter, cleanded the maf and egr and plugged the iat sensor in..hehee, maybe it will run a little better.

WHAT THE HELL!!!!

so i get a new ignition module from u pull r parts...put it in, car cranks and cranks, never starts........car ran fine with the ignition module from my regal (car sat a day and half with no ignition module coil packs)

so im thinking, bad module. i get ANTOHER module, from viking auto salvage......same thing, cranks and cranks. so we put the orignial back in, which ran on 4 cylinders, cranks and cranks, no start


WHAT THE HECK HAPPENED????? we checked the fuses, both panels. when the car is left "ON" but not started obviously, the what i think is the fuel pressure regulator and injectors click really fast......anything to do with it? they keep clicking untill the key is removed......they dont always do this, they did it 2 or 3 times when we tried starting it and left it in the ON position after.

bump!

Are you getting any spark since swapping ICM'*? I like to check with a spare spark plug & check each of the front 3 cylinders.

You never answered What is leaking from the brake booster. No fluid should be leaking from here.

no spark, we tried the new coil packs, 3 ICM'*......1 that we know for sure that 4 cylinders work

it ran great on monday, then we pulled my icm back and put it back in the regal.....it sat for 2 days and my brother turned the car ON (not start) without the icm to roll up the windows


bad ecm?

i saw at viking, the ecm'* are 45, but doesn't it HAVE to be for a 93 ssei?? not that we should start throwing random parts at it anyways.

its leaking where the brake booster connects to the car, its a very slow leak, we know it should be fixed but the car is worth 1500 tops, so he doesn't care

We need to check for power going to the ICM. You should have 12 volts going to the ICM when the key is in the run position. Disconnect the ICM wiring harness & check the P terminal of the harness. It should be a pink or pink/black wire at one end of the connector.

yes, reads 11.9 volts, pink to the battery ground

Ok - you've got it narrowed down to ICM, coils, crank sensor, spark plug wires & spark plugs. Can you try one of the ICM'* with coil packs on the Regal?

ok.....here'* a wierd update, running new ICM #1 and original coils, my dad cleaned the crap out of the plates, mounting plates screws etc etc. it started, but you had to give it just a little gas when cranking, and the idle is kinda rough, not as rough as before....but it did feel like it wanted to stall, and it did once. when reving and driving, it felt 100% normal according to my brother and dad. so we tried switching out to the new ICM #2 and the new coils, no change

so it does run fine, and idle when it runs for a little bit, but it does sound a little lopey... so if it was at 70% before all this started, its at 90% now. on monday, when it ran fine for some reason, it ran 100% ok.

things were thinking of

they did put some sort of injector cleaner, that was really oily/ thick i guess

maybe one of the spark plug wires is loose? all 6 cylinders are firing off the pack.