Hey there, I am still trying to rebuild my 95 Bonneville'* non-super engine "K" and about the bearings for both rod and main, what is the difference in .000 .010 .020 .030 .040 Autozone offers them and I need to know what the difference is and what I should get. The original problem was a ticking noise when accelerating along with low oil pressure. /the tick turned into a knock and now it runs no more. people kept telling me wrist pin. Any advise help is greatly appreciated.

The different designations are for different sizes to allow for wear. 000 is stock, 0.010 is 0.010" oversize, etc. Oversize bearings compensate for undersized crank. You generally get into the larger sizes (020, 030, 040) if you polish or regrind the crank. Inspect your crank for scratches, wear, etc., and check it with a runout gage to make sure it is still in spec to determine if it needs to be polished or ground. When the crank is in okay condition, measure the bearing interface surfaces to see what size bearings you need.

You will need a rebuild manual to tell you what all the spec sizes are, so when you take measurements you know where you are relative to design dimensions.

If you aren't set up for all this, you might want to strip the block down, and take the block, crank and camshaft into an engine rebuilder. Let him evaluate the condition, polish/grind as required and take the measurements required to pick which bearings to use. Have him check the cylinders at the same time to see if you need them bored, or just honed to re-establish the cross hatch pattern on the walls. He can measure them and tell you what size piston rings you need to maintain the proper ring end gaps.

Does anyone make dual exhaust kits or do I need to make my own?

You will have to make your own.

Is it relatively difficult trying to get pipes to bend around correctly in the bay?

If you have a pipe bender then no problem.

I found an engine that I might be able to swap with but it is a series 3, would I be able to switch over the sensors and run it as a series 2?

Overall from the exterior the engines are nearly identical.

Swap UIM, fuel rails and a couple brackets, then it'll be great for you.

So sensors stat the same as well?

Yes, for the most part.

The knock sensors are the same
The crank and cam sensors are the same
The temp sensor is the same
Swap the UIM and the map sensor is the original
Swap the injectors/fuel rail and they are the originals
Swap the TB and the IAT, TPS and maf are the originals
I'd leave the oil pan, the level sensor needs to be swapped over.
Swap over the oil filter adapter, as the W body version will hit your subframe.
The L26 will have a dual drilled flex plate and bolt to your torque converter w/o a problem.
Any other brackets, coils etc should be swapped from your other motor, that'* normal.