1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Front Rotors

Old 07-15-2005, 10:02 AM
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Default Front Rotors

I need to replace the rotors again. They've reached the point at which you can't cut them anymore. I was wondering why is it that the rotors are so expensive from the dealer (over $500 a pair) compared to what'* available from Pep Boys or Auto Barn (about $70 a pair)? Are they made stronger or what? A friend of mine gave me a brand new pair of cross drilled and slotted rotors from his '95 SE, which he sold. I don't want to buy the rotors from the dealer. Can I use the cross drilled and slotted rotors at least for the short term? I"ve heard that they tend to warp faster. All I care for now is to avoid the high cost. Any ideas? Thanks.
Old 07-15-2005, 10:05 AM
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NAPA United Rotor - Front

Part#: 86325

Price: $ 62.99x2

u can use those rotors but only if u feel that they are necessary
Old 07-15-2005, 10:13 AM
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I just had a rotor thread going on General Chat...

I ended up buying a set of rotors from Napa for $29. each. I've only had them on a couple thousand miles, but they seem to be doing well. True test will be when I get around 12,000 miles on them...that'* when all my rotors tend to warp!
Old 07-15-2005, 10:20 AM
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You should be able to use them. I believe all the rotors 92-99 are the same part number. However Mr. Napa (with the ilegal sig pic) should be able to confirm this for us.

Ps...nice post kenn

Vital, have you tried the wd40 on the studs and cleaning the rim and mating surfaces?
Old 07-15-2005, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by BillBost37

Vital, have you tried the wd40 on the studs and cleaning the rim and mating surfaces?
Yes, I cleaned all mating surfaces with starting fluid and a wire brush (the hub behind the rotor and also the inside of the wheel). All of that came very clean. Furthermore, I soaked the lug nuts in 10w-30 over night. Next morning, reassembeled everything and torqued the wheel to 25 ft lbs, then 50, then 75, then 100 in the criss-cross pattern.

If that doesn't do it, I don't know what will!
Old 07-15-2005, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by vital49
Originally Posted by BillBost37

Vital, have you tried the wd40 on the studs and cleaning the rim and mating surfaces?
Yes, I cleaned all mating surfaces with starting fluid and a wire brush (the hub behind the rotor and also the inside of the wheel). All of that came very clean. Furthermore, I soaked the lug nuts in 10w-30 over night. Next morning, reassembeled everything and torqued the wheel to 25 ft lbs, then 50, then 75, then 100 in the criss-cross pattern.

If that doesn't do it, I don't know what will!
If taht doesn't do it..I'd buy the life time rotors and pads..then swap them in under 2 years...lol
Old 07-15-2005, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
Guys, send me a PM to post some pics of the Rotors.... I just replaced mine with a set of Bendix Rotors instead of the $25 cheapies I usually get.... I may even shoot a pic of the pads while I'm at it....

Someone just shoot me a PM as a reminder with a link to this thread....
PM sent!
Old 07-15-2005, 07:09 PM
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i just bought rotors today for 20 bucks from oreillys

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