For a moment I was going to suggest step #2 as outlined in the last message I typed. I realize that frequently I probably come across as sounding like a cocky know it all. The upside is frequently I'm right on the diagnosis because I've seen so many of these motors with a multitude of issues and solved them.

When we make suggestions of looking and testing thing for free and instead a person goes off and spends money and replaces parts that we don't think are probably bad... then the diagnosis process is tougher. Mainly because we are doing this over the internet and it'* like not we are standing there with you hearing the noises etc. That'* were a video or more detailed description comes in.

My first take on the bang is a broken endlink bad motor mount or a bad subframe bushing, maybe even a bad strut. With having seen how a transmission is built, it'* unlikely that a single sound once the gear is engaged is inside the trans.

Bill, for once there was a happy ending. My car needed a tuneup anyway so I didn't spend any extra money and the problem is fixed. Yeah I was real worried for a whle, I am still dirty, it was cold, and it end up costing me $239.85. But for that money I got oil and filter, plugs (and grease), wires (and grease), ICM, fuel treatment, and a coil. But now the car is running real good and I don't have to use my Shubarus : )

Wow..I missed a page when I posted I feel retarded now. But I can solve your vent problems.

On the top of your supercharger about 5 inches from teh throttle body is a black piece with three ports. One is large and goes to the brake booster, the middle one should be connected to a hard plastic vacuum line that runs into the wiring loom along the back of the supercharger. Locate the break in that line and you'll have control again.

See were going to sell the car and have it all fixed and running again for a small cost. Awesome work!

No repairing the vacuum line in the wire loom, replace it. Get a generic vacuum lin eand connect at the supercharger and find the other end where it comes out. It'* on the passanger side under the cover on the fire wall. The wires go in right by the strut tower.

Odd, that hasn't been the same experience I've had with them.

The line typically breaks right at the vacuum connector of the rubber itself breaks at the connection. I've fixed a lot of them. From that port on top of the supercharger the line does go to the firewall where the main connector for elelctrical passes through. Except it doesn't go inside right there. It heads down into the front of the passenger fender to the vacuum canister. From there it heads inside to the HVAC.

Mine snapped on both ends right at the loom. I connected a new line at the rubber line by the strut tower and ran that right to the supercharger.

Wow.. you have all the good luck.

Now I am not saying that mine didn't break cause it already did. It broke where the elbow goes into the blower motor housing. That plastic boot is a poor design. Between the heat and emissions or whatever gases are coming from the engine it just breaks the plastic down. But the good news is, once I started driving the vent controls started working again. But when I sat in my driveway for 5 minutes and I could not get them to change from the defroster.

On a lighter note, can anyone recommend a repair manual? I was thinking about buying this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Thanks, Jack

For $15 bucks, I don't think you have anything to loose with the DVD version. The FSM are usually $150 and a Chilton'* or Haynes run about $25.