So, I'm trying to remove and replace the Driver'* side rear transmission mount. I have the mount completely loose from the frame and transmission. I even have the two halves separated... but I cannot figure out how to get the old mount out from between the tranny, frame and steering rack.

I have lifted the engine and tranny as high as I can go... I'm starting to pick up the car. Since I have the front mount disconnected, I tried pushing the tranny forward, but it won't budge. The FSM says to lower the frame... but the mount is still going to be wedged between the rack and frame... I don't see how lowering the frame is going to help much... and since I have the tranny mounts disconnected, lowering the frame is going to be a huge PITA.

I loosened the rack, but it doesn't seem to move much either.

How the heck do you get the mount out of there?!?

BKNJ

That mount consists of a rubber mount that attaches to the frame with three (or two?) nuts, and to a metal plate with one nut. That metal plate then attaches to the trans with three bolts.

Maybe you did this already, but you are going to have to take out the three bolts that attach the plate to the trans, then remove the plate and mount as a unit. The tool I've used for the plate bolts is a 13mm ratchet-head wrench, though a u-joint socket swivel might work. PB Blaster will help.

Yeah, thats the one. I got all 7 bolts off... 3 on the plate to engine, 3 mount to frame and one holding the thing together... I actually got the mount and plate separated... and everything is loose...and I _still_ can't either piece unwedged from the car.

BKNJ

Ok, ooking at the FSM, I see 3 bolts on the trans and 3 on the frame.

From the looks of it, jack up the car so you can get under. Support the trans, remove the 3 bolts on the trans, then the 3 on the frame. Looks like the mount needs to go up to come off. It'* more then likely stuck, so penetrating oil should help with this. You may need a little help getting it loose.

True, there isn't much room between the trans casing, rack, and frame. Here'* what you may have to do:

Undo the "dogbone" mount on the passenger'* side trans rear (I think you did that already); make sure the powertrain is well supported (e.g., jackstands)
Undo the three nuts attaching the front mount to the frame (the mount with the little "strut" in it).
Jack the driver'* side of the powertrain up far enough that the trans mount can slip out; you may have to wiggle the powertrain forward a bit, too.

The only mount that will still be attached is the torque axis mount; that one will have some ability to torque a little bit in all directions, hopefully giving you the wiggle room you need. Trans lines are attached at the front mount, and will move with the powertrain (no worries there).

You may have to undo the driver'* axle to jack the trans up far enough...

In any case, make sure that powertrain is well supported at all times!

I only have the front tranny mount (with the strut) and rear tranny mounts disconnected.

I didn't try disconnecting the passenger side rear engine mount dogbone. I didn't think that would hold up the moving the drivetrain forward, but now I see that it could.

Maybe I'll replace the dogbone mount, as well... the bushings are looking a bit rough.

So you are recommending having engine and tranny so high that I can slide the rear tranny mount between the tranny and the front of the frame. Interesting... that'* a long way to go up.

IIRC, the axles just pull out, right? Will there be enough room to pull the axle out if I don't undo the big-*** nut on the other side of the wheel bearing assembly?

Thanks for the info...

BKNJ

Yes, that is a long way to go. Bear in mind this is only a suggestion, not a proven technique--being that the only time I've ever replaced that mount myself was with the motor and trans completely removed.

With the axle out, I think it will work.


Yes and no...the axle does just pull out of the trans (or, on that side of the trans, can be pried out with a prybar and a sharp "rap"); but in order to get the trans end of the axle far enough out of the trans you will very likely have to: Remove: wheel, brake caliper, brake disc, wheel hub bolts, dust shield; disconnect wheel speed sensor connector; leave hub end of axle attached to hub, and pull hub out of knuckle (axle won't come all the way out, because the CV joint is bigger than the hub-hole). This will give you the needed three or four inches more you can move the axle away from the trans.

You may lose a little ATF from the axle seal hole, so have a quart of Dex 3 handy.

------------------

The only other thing I can think of would be to completely disconnect and lift the rack, but I'd avoid that if possible.

Lucky for me, the engine and tranny are completely free of fluid. I was doing the LIM/UIM gaskets and I inadvertently dumped a pint of so of coolant into the oil pan... then I discovered the oil pan gasket was leaking... so I dropped in to replace and clean out any potential milkshake. Then I thought I'd replace the tranny filter and fluid... and I noticed the both mounts on the driver'* side looked bad.

I have had this poor thing high and dry for three months now. Free time and the weather just don't like cooperating.

This was the tact I was doing... and I have the rack almost loose... but then it got too dark and cold to see if that would pay off. I figure I only need about 1/4" of rack lift to squeeze it by... and then I'm sure I'll run into the sway bar. But I figure loosening that is easier than pulling the axle out.

This mount is the last thing I need to finish before I can drop the car, fill everything up and start 'er up. Almost tempted to live with a weak mount.

BKNJ

So, I finally got the mount out in the 27 degree weather.

Since I had the front tranny mount installed, I was able to drop the engine and tranny. I had already loosened the steering rack (three big, tight bolts). I then took a short piece of metal and used that and my jack to jack the rack up about 7/8"-1" high. The mount then could be twisted free towards the rear... up and over the sway bar.

I had also undone my tie rod end, as I thought with the rack raised I would bring the mount out the side, but that wasn't the case... and of course, once you disconnect an old tie rod, you can't get the castle nut back on without spinning the joint... so I had to replace that as well.

Getting the new mount in was about the same as removing the old one, even though the new mount was slightly bigger (the old one was crushed slightly). The difficult thing was getting the engine/tranny dropped so that the two new mounts would fit in the 6 cradle holes. That required about a hour of prying about.

So I got everything together... and was _finally_ able to fill the cars' fluids (didn't leak... so far). I tried to start the car and it barely runs... lovely. I'll be posting about that RSN... I have a resume to write, so I had to drop the Bonneville project until my mind clears and I warm up.

But, at least its back together!

BKNJ

Check around for vac leaks. All it takes is one missed hose.