Got a new SSE but it wont start
#1
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Got a new SSE but it wont start
I go to this ladi'* house cause she is selling a 95 SSE cause it wont start & she told me that she has spent about $2,000 on it. But the problem persists. I left because the car needed a lot of t.l.c., next day the lady calls me & tells me that if I go with a tow truck its mine for freeeeeeeeeeeeee!
Ofcourse its in my driveway but it wont start.
She tells me that at first it wouldt start after the engine was hot. like she would go to a store & then had to wait for a long time before the car would start again. Then it started daying on her on the middle of the road after the engine got worm. & now it wont eaven crank. I can see that the problem is electric, but dont know where to start.
She told me that it has a new battery, a new computer, new ditributor, & changed some cables. then she gave up.
Ofcourse its in my driveway but it wont start.
She tells me that at first it wouldt start after the engine was hot. like she would go to a store & then had to wait for a long time before the car would start again. Then it started daying on her on the middle of the road after the engine got worm. & now it wont eaven crank. I can see that the problem is electric, but dont know where to start.
She told me that it has a new battery, a new computer, new ditributor, & changed some cables. then she gave up.
#4
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=38
its a common problem with you year but not to dianose it too early and inncorectly check it for the tell tail signs
its a common problem with you year but not to dianose it too early and inncorectly check it for the tell tail signs
#6
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To make sure it is not an internal coolant leak, pull the spark plugs and see if they are dry. Turn the engine over by hand in case a cylinder is full of coolant. See if the cylinders are dry. If the coolant level is up in the radiator and expansion tank and cylinders and plugs are dry, and the oil looks OK, look for problems other than UIM/LIM.
Hard start hot can be a bad FPR or Crank Position Sensor, ICM, Coils or other stuff.
Before you start replacing things, though, check BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables for corrosion. Peel back the boots and look underneath. Check the grounds for the PCM by the oil filter, the ICM ground under the plate on the bolt, and the body ground by the battery. Clean up these connections and put them back on with dielectric grease.
Check to make sure the last guy didn't route the plug wires improperly when changing them.
Hard start hot can be a bad FPR or Crank Position Sensor, ICM, Coils or other stuff.
Before you start replacing things, though, check BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables for corrosion. Peel back the boots and look underneath. Check the grounds for the PCM by the oil filter, the ICM ground under the plate on the bolt, and the body ground by the battery. Clean up these connections and put them back on with dielectric grease.
Check to make sure the last guy didn't route the plug wires improperly when changing them.
#7
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i just got done posting this same thing in another post, i had the same problem, the car would seize and shut off, did not know what was going on, then it seized up for the last time, and wouldnt crank
long story short, it was the alternater seizing up, try taking off the belt and see if that works,
but try spining by hand first, with a bar or screwdriver, to see if anything is seized
long story short, it was the alternater seizing up, try taking off the belt and see if that works,
but try spining by hand first, with a bar or screwdriver, to see if anything is seized
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