Repaired my noisy ELC Pump - Looooong
This Forum has been of great help to me. I really hope they get the Tech Pages back online soon.
Anyway, my small offering below is about the ELC Pump.
My pump was very noisy although still functional. I disassembled it and although I have no pictures to offer, it'* really straight forward in its dis-assembly. In retrospect I wish I had taken pictures but I wasn't sure if I would even have any luck getting it apart or back together. The Dryer is $80 from what I've seen, the Pump $480+
Once you remove the pump assembly from the car and have it on the bench, the end cover on the pump itself comes off. Mine had a lot of water from the Dryer being saturated with moisture. Inside the pump housing, there is a hole in the counter weight of the piston/rod assy that you can put a bolt through to keep it from rotating when you remove the piston "rod" which is really just a LEFT handed threaded bolt with a screw driver slot instead of a bolt head. Remove that bolt turning it clock wise, I used a screw driver that had a place to put a wrench on it for added twisting capability. The bolt is pretty tight, use a screwdriver with a thick tip that fits the slot well. Then separate the electric motor from the pump housing. It'* stuck pretty good with a foam type adhesive and be careful not to distort the motor housing when prying around its perimeter to separate the pump from the motor. Once the two are separated, take vice-grips and clamp the counter weight while twisting the armature of the motor counter clockwise and this will allow you to remove the piston from the pump and the armature from the pump housing. The bearing in the pump housing was shot as a result of all the moisture that was inside. Drive the bearing out towards the motor side of the pump housing using a socket or anything equivalent to slightly smaller that the OD of the bearing. The bearing happens to be the same as roller blade or Razor type scooter wheel bearings. I found them as cheap as $4.75 up to $10. I cleaned everything before driving the new bearing which I robbed from a spare Razor scooter wheel. I used silicone and resealed the motor housing to pump housing. There is a bearing that acts as a rod bearing, it'* a roller bearing too but mine was okay and I couldn't make out the part number on it to locate one anyway. Now, on to the Dryer which you've removed and set aside. They do come apart, gently vise it on the hex molded on the outlet lid and twist it counter clockwise. When you take it apart there will be a one way valve on the outlet end and then a big spring then a plate backed by foam. Behind the plate is a bunch of what I presume to be silicate crystals. Mine were sopping wet and even had a capful of water in there. Clean it all up and on re-assembly, use a little silicone grease on the rubber o-ring that seals the lid to the Dryer housing and either do as I did and leave out the crystals or find some more somewhere. I plan to revisit the Dryer with a pet-**** or some other draining device or find crystals to re-install in the Dryer. No way am I going to pay $80 for a plastic tube full of silicate. There may have been someone else that addressed this project but I've not found it. Since the pump runs quiet now and my new struts are pumped, I need to address the moisture issue now that the pump works well.
If I can offer any additional info or clarification, please let me know.