1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Rear main bearing seal (1998)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-04-2006, 04:04 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Posts like a Corvette
Thread Starter
 
92BonneSE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
92BonneSE is on a distinguished road
Default Rear main bearing seal (1998)

The dealer says it need to be replaced and they have to pull the whole engine to do this. Is that true? They want $1000 to do it. I just need some information on this topic. If its not that hard, maybe my dad will just have a BC mini-meet at our house and some Bonneville nuts can help fix it.
Old 10-04-2006, 07:19 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
bill buttermore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 3,066
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
bill buttermore is on a distinguished road
Default

Either the engine or the trans has to be pulled to replace the rear main bearing (rear crankshaft) seal. When you get the engine separated from the trans, you will see the rear crank seal carrier. The oil pan has to come down too. It is easier to do the rear main seal with the engine out of the car, but you can do it with just the trans out, too.

$1000/$70/hr = 14 hrs. That is about right. Pulling engines and transaxles takes time and skill. If you don't have a hoist for pulling the engine or the engine with the trans, you can drop the trans out the bottom by supporting the engine with an engine hanger. Or you can rent a hoist. Procedures for pulling trans, and engine with trans are detailed in Techinfo.

You may also want to consider changing out the pump seal on the trans when you have them apart. That is the other big seal that resides between the engine and trans.
Old 10-04-2006, 09:44 PM
  #3  
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS

Expert Gearhead
 
BillBoost37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Enfield, CT
Posts: 41,391
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
BillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of light
Default

Or like all the rest of us.. you can simply wipe the oil pan and area each oil change.

That'* what I do..
Old 10-09-2006, 08:44 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
 
ChilinMichael's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 601
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
ChilinMichael is on a distinguished road
Default

I just had my rear main seal done..

#1 Don't go to a dealer, as far as around here, it'* like handing in your entire wallet.
#2 The estimated labor hours, was 7, not 14. That'* entirely ridiculous, what are they doing, rebuilding the motor?

Total cost to me was $500, which from looking here and there was right, please don't spend more than you should, it'* gonna hurt all of us. I had the Tranny and flywheel dropped and it done, then put back together, works like a charm.
Old 10-09-2006, 10:08 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
Posts like a Corvette
Thread Starter
 
92BonneSE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
92BonneSE is on a distinguished road
Default

I ended up taking it to another shop that services only GM cars. They sad its the oil pan and said that should get rid of most if not all leaks if I get that done. They also suggested a trans service, he quoted both the oil pan gaskets and trans service at ~$300. So we will probaly get that done and see where that takes us.
Old 10-09-2006, 10:13 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
 
ChilinMichael's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 601
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
ChilinMichael is on a distinguished road
Default

Yeah that'* about right there (that price) and believe me, my oil pan gasket has to get done too, stupid GM and their faulty gaskets
Old 10-09-2006, 10:44 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Hans's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Twin Falls, Idaho
Posts: 7,545
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Hans is on a distinguished road
Default

Originally Posted by 92BonneSE
I ended up taking it to another shop that services only GM cars. They sad its the oil pan and said that should get rid of most if not all leaks if I get that done. They also suggested a trans service, he quoted both the oil pan gaskets and trans service at ~$300. So we will probaly get that done and see where that takes us.
Um, yeah sounds like you are realling getting the shaft now
Old 10-10-2006, 11:18 AM
  #8  
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS

Expert Gearhead
 
BillBoost37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Enfield, CT
Posts: 41,391
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
BillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of light
Default

Originally Posted by ChilinMichael
Yeah that'* about right there (that price) and believe me, my oil pan gasket has to get done too, stupid GM and their faulty gaskets
Mike..all manufacturers have gaskets that can leak. it'* imperfections usually in other parts that allow gaskets to leak. For example..on an series 2 motor...according to a local part guy at the dealer, you should use engine sealant with the gasket.

Oil pan gasket is around $45 at the parts store, plus oil and filter, plus labor..*/b ~$150ish. a trans service if they are servicing and flushing could easily run ~$150. Trans filter kit is around $20 plus fluid and labor.

Not sure where in Potatoland you are getting hosed for not getting dirty. It sounds expensive, but realistically isn't the worst price you could get.
Old 10-10-2006, 11:43 AM
  #9  
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
bill buttermore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 3,066
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
bill buttermore is on a distinguished road
Default

Originally Posted by ChilinMichael
...I knew my rear main was leaking, ... I got the work done cheap since the dealer paid half
Originally Posted by ChilinMichael
I just had my rear main seal done..

#1 Don't go to a dealer, as far as around here, it'* like handing in your entire wallet.
#2 The estimated labor hours, was 7, not 14. That'* entirely ridiculous, what are they doing, rebuilding the motor?

Total cost to me was $500, which from looking here and there was right, please don't spend more than you should, it'* gonna hurt all of us. I had the Tranny and flywheel dropped and it done, then put back together, works like a charm.
Originally Posted by ChilinMichael
... I just got it home 2 days ago and well, it leaks still.

Originally Posted by ChilinMichael
Well I went to the shop today, the flywheel is bone dry and they say it'* not the rear main...

Now another leak cropped up, my oil pan gasket.
Also seems i have some seepage around the lower intake manifold.

I feel so bad considering the rest of the car, is mint

I would say you got a pretty low price ($500 your cost) for r&r on a transaxle. Or did the dealer split the cost with you, and was the cost for the work actually $1000? Either way, If they did install a new rear crank seal, they had to have dropped the oil pan to do it correctly. This is because the bottom of the rear seal carrier joins to the engine block to form several inches of sealing surface for the oil pan. To prevent the oil pan from leaking, you need to be careful to align the seal carrier flush with the engine block at the oil pan sealing surface and make sure that the joints between the block and the seal carrier are sealed properly with RTV silicone. It is also a good idea to replace the oil pan gasket as the old bead may have taken a "set" on the old carrier/block joint.

I suppose I am getting slower as I get older. Still, 7 hours would require some pretty quick wrenching. Maybe they were not as careful as they needed to be around that tricky area. I know I could never get that job done that quickly.

I have found this old adage to be dependably true: Economy, Quality, Speed. Select two; sacrifice the third.
Old 10-10-2006, 04:45 PM
  #10  
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
 
ChilinMichael's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 601
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
ChilinMichael is on a distinguished road
Default

The total for the work was $500, I paid $250 myself, it was estimated 7 hours labor by a set number on a cd the mechanic had that was pretty standard to all people. Also as far as I know, the oil pan was not removed, the tranny and flywheel was simply removed (along with suspension parts to get it out, etc), I'll ask though when I see him.


Quick Reply: Rear main bearing seal (1998)



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:17 AM.