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Rear end sagging and wheels tilted

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Old 04-12-2005, 07:52 PM
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Your camber issue isn't bad struts, it'* a bad alignment. Namely camber. You're going to have massive tire wear if it'* not corrected. They need to be aligned/retorqued.

Struts are causing the sagging, but if money is tight, sagging won't kill you.
Old 04-12-2005, 07:59 PM
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Here'* what you could possibly expect to see of your tires if you let the problem go too far.....

I had the same issue (In the front, and still kinda do) and this is what happened to my tires.

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Old 04-12-2005, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockford
Originally Posted by harofreak00
time for new struts then..
How hard is that to do, I'm really low on cash and any work i need done i gotta do myself.
The Rear Struts are easy to do (as long as they didn't change the design since '91). Two Big Bolts on the Bottom and two little bolts inside the trunk. That'* it!! Replace the Struts, get the car properly aligned, and you're good to go!!!
Old 04-13-2005, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Ol' Timer
Originally Posted by Rockford
Originally Posted by harofreak00
time for new struts then..
How hard is that to do, I'm really low on cash and any work i need done i gotta do myself.
The Rear Struts are easy to do (as long as they didn't change the design since '91). Two Big Bolts on the Bottom and two little bolts inside the trunk. That'* it!! Replace the Struts, get the car properly aligned, and you're good to go!!!
What kind of tools will i need and what kinda problems should i expect, And how much do most places charge to do an alignment.
Old 04-13-2005, 10:45 AM
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Expect 75-100 for an alignment, could be less if you get a good place.

You need a spring compressor (rent/borrow from parts store) and those 3 bolts should be done with 1/2" drive socket wrenches.
Old 04-13-2005, 11:44 AM
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I have a buddy with a '94 that actually had a suspension collapse on the right rear due to a bolt failure. I find this hard to believe, as I'm sure all the suspension bolts are Grade 8 hardware, but it happened.

I think you need to get that car up on a lift and give it a good looking-over. Failure you to do could result in an ugly accident.

As you said, funds are short, but it'* a mechanical thing and requires maintenance, and fixing things before they fail is usually cheaper, and in this case, a whole hell of a lot safer.
Old 04-13-2005, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
Expect 75-100 for an alignment, could be less if you get a good place.

You need a spring compressor (rent/borrow from parts store) and those 3 bolts should be done with 1/2" drive socket wrenches.
You don't need a spring compressor to do the rear shocks. I guess I used the term rear struts when I should have said shocks. Anyway, the rear shocks are not encased within the springs so they are easily accessible. A 1/2" Drive would make loosening the bolts at the bottome of the shock easier. If you can get a Breaker Bar so much the better. I don't remember exactly the size of the bottom nuts but I'd estimate them to be about 17mm. The Top Two Nuts that are a little difficult to access are about 12mm. You might want to have someone feed you the new shock when you're trying to bolt it to the top of the shock mount in the trunk. BTW....KYB makes a good replacement shock/strut IMO. Good Luck.
Old 04-13-2005, 03:56 PM
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Ah, I am doing both springs/struts when i get to it, that'* why I never thought about it like that...

We broke a Husky/Stanely 3/8 on a front strut doing my ball joints, not the ratcheting mechanism, but the mounting square sheared off.

Those may be bigger up front, but take it with a word of caution.
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