Stumbling, Surging, Hesitation ** FIXED **
#1
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Stumbling, Surging, Hesitation ** FIXED **
OK.
I searched, and read MANY MANY forums topics, and tech info, before posting this:
Initiallyif I drove the car like a granny it was fine. Giving it more that 20% throttle would result in EXTREME bucking, with no acceleration. I FOUND that the tensioner pulley was cracked and allowed for it to be moved by hand. This was replaced, along with wires and plugs and belts at the same time.
Car could now be given 40% throttle before reaching the same results. ( Surging,and missing with NO extra acceleration. Cleaned MAF sensor with MAF Sensor cleaner ( the two wires were black ). Cleaned all in the throttle body with throttle body cleaner ( was disgusting inside ) and cleaned the honeycomb screen thats there too. Now I can give the car 60% throttle, much better idle, and much smoother acceleration. Car drives PERFECT if I never give it more than about 60% throttle. ( MORE IMPORTANTLY, IT DRIVES PERFECT IF I DONT LET IT GO ABOVE "0" ON THE BOOST GAUGE ) I i give it more throttle to go positive on the boost gauge it basically causes:
The boost gauge to go from 0 to yellow to 5 to 3 to 0 to 7 to yellow randomly
The car does not accelerate, but rather shakes in an attempt to go faster
Feels like its missing, but new plugs and wires were put on. HOWEVER. the packs have not been messed with at all. The plugs wires i used were sdd ( standard motor prod. )( cheap and not metal sleeved in the rear, literally $20.54 ) but the plugs are platinum ( ac delco 41-940)
Fuel Filter, Harmonic Balancer, Ider Pulleys should be good ( replaced within 24 months )
Any ideas welcome
I searched, and read MANY MANY forums topics, and tech info, before posting this:
Initiallyif I drove the car like a granny it was fine. Giving it more that 20% throttle would result in EXTREME bucking, with no acceleration. I FOUND that the tensioner pulley was cracked and allowed for it to be moved by hand. This was replaced, along with wires and plugs and belts at the same time.
Car could now be given 40% throttle before reaching the same results. ( Surging,and missing with NO extra acceleration. Cleaned MAF sensor with MAF Sensor cleaner ( the two wires were black ). Cleaned all in the throttle body with throttle body cleaner ( was disgusting inside ) and cleaned the honeycomb screen thats there too. Now I can give the car 60% throttle, much better idle, and much smoother acceleration. Car drives PERFECT if I never give it more than about 60% throttle. ( MORE IMPORTANTLY, IT DRIVES PERFECT IF I DONT LET IT GO ABOVE "0" ON THE BOOST GAUGE ) I i give it more throttle to go positive on the boost gauge it basically causes:
The boost gauge to go from 0 to yellow to 5 to 3 to 0 to 7 to yellow randomly
The car does not accelerate, but rather shakes in an attempt to go faster
Feels like its missing, but new plugs and wires were put on. HOWEVER. the packs have not been messed with at all. The plugs wires i used were sdd ( standard motor prod. )( cheap and not metal sleeved in the rear, literally $20.54 ) but the plugs are platinum ( ac delco 41-940)
Fuel Filter, Harmonic Balancer, Ider Pulleys should be good ( replaced within 24 months )
Any ideas welcome
#2
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First thing you should do is put your year and trim in your signature so we know what'* trying to be fixed. (click on Profile on the top of the screen). There'* talk that platinum plugs are not recommended for boosted applications.
#4
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wow thats like, exactly the same problem i have. i just havent started looking it over yet, you think its possible that its the transmission? it almost seems like it slips because its getting forced to work harder... but i dont know
#5
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Inspect all 6 plugs. They should all be an even light tan color. Tell us which ones aren't (by numbers).
Check the resistance of your plug wires and report the numbers back here.
Check the resistances of the coil packs (use the procedure in Techinfo) and report the numbers back here.
Check your fuel pressure at key on, no start (do this for 2 seconds, repeat 3 times then take the reading), at idle, and at idle with the vacuum line pulled off the FPR.
Report all these readings back here.
Check the resistance of your plug wires and report the numbers back here.
Check the resistances of the coil packs (use the procedure in Techinfo) and report the numbers back here.
Check your fuel pressure at key on, no start (do this for 2 seconds, repeat 3 times then take the reading), at idle, and at idle with the vacuum line pulled off the FPR.
Report all these readings back here.
#6
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I agree with Will'* suggestions, and if the plugs and wires have already been replaced and there are no error codes, I'd personally check the coil packs next.
#9
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ok..
latest post:
went to a junk yard today
Bought coil packs that looked nicer and newer than mine.
Bought new bosch 02 sensor
Bought new pcv valve.
Installed new pcv valve ( old one real brown and oilly.. looked bad - DID NOT SEE ANY O-ring whatsoever during the install )
Installed new o2 sensor, old one gray and rusty.
Put wire loom over all spark plug wires, re routed them all, and put wire look over o2 sensor wire .. nothing is touching anything at all..
Problem still there - Now to the coil packs.. ALL 6 ( 3 on car, 3 from junk yard ) coil packs read .7 underneath the packs. The tops ( while installed on the car ) read as follows:
ON CAR PREVIOUSLY:
4,1: 5.85 ***
2,5: 5.86
6,3: 5.8
FROM JUNK YARD:
4,1: OPEN !
2,5: 5.74 ***
6,3: 5.8 ***
*** Denotes what IS ON THE CAR NOW.
Problem persists
I now think it may be a fuel injector problem. It idles good, but sometimes feels a little like its missing. ANY driving under " 0" on boost gauge, is wonderful.. Hit " 0" on the gauge it starts to stumble, and it hesitates and burps the more gas you give it into the " + " range of the boost gauge.
Also cleaned the MAF sensor, and the throttle body ( but only what could be cleaned while ON the car. ( outside of butterfly )
Good news is I have about 20 bonnevilles within 30 miles of my house, 3 within 10.. not too many SC though.
Ohhh BTW.. SC is noisy as hell... but i would hate to shell out 430 and still have the issue... so i want to narrow it down first before i spend all that.
I do have the ac delco platinums plugs which ppl dont like, but they SHOULD be perfect in that car... a guy at napa told me NGK in a GM doesnt sound right.... ( I was thinking of going to the TR55'*....
Any suggestions...
went to a junk yard today
Bought coil packs that looked nicer and newer than mine.
Bought new bosch 02 sensor
Bought new pcv valve.
Installed new pcv valve ( old one real brown and oilly.. looked bad - DID NOT SEE ANY O-ring whatsoever during the install )
Installed new o2 sensor, old one gray and rusty.
Put wire loom over all spark plug wires, re routed them all, and put wire look over o2 sensor wire .. nothing is touching anything at all..
Problem still there - Now to the coil packs.. ALL 6 ( 3 on car, 3 from junk yard ) coil packs read .7 underneath the packs. The tops ( while installed on the car ) read as follows:
ON CAR PREVIOUSLY:
4,1: 5.85 ***
2,5: 5.86
6,3: 5.8
FROM JUNK YARD:
4,1: OPEN !
2,5: 5.74 ***
6,3: 5.8 ***
*** Denotes what IS ON THE CAR NOW.
Problem persists
I now think it may be a fuel injector problem. It idles good, but sometimes feels a little like its missing. ANY driving under " 0" on boost gauge, is wonderful.. Hit " 0" on the gauge it starts to stumble, and it hesitates and burps the more gas you give it into the " + " range of the boost gauge.
Also cleaned the MAF sensor, and the throttle body ( but only what could be cleaned while ON the car. ( outside of butterfly )
Good news is I have about 20 bonnevilles within 30 miles of my house, 3 within 10.. not too many SC though.
Ohhh BTW.. SC is noisy as hell... but i would hate to shell out 430 and still have the issue... so i want to narrow it down first before i spend all that.
I do have the ac delco platinums plugs which ppl dont like, but they SHOULD be perfect in that car... a guy at napa told me NGK in a GM doesnt sound right.... ( I was thinking of going to the TR55'*....
Any suggestions...
#10
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" Check your fuel pressure at key on, no start (do this for 2 seconds, repeat 3 times then take the reading), at idle, and at idle with the vacuum line pulled off the FPR. "
What ? lol.. i have no idea what this means.. Sorry i need a little more help with this one.. Also.. I got a keless entry fob on ebay and it works.. totally stoked considering my family has been using THE KEY for 8+ years.. stupid easy to program too...
What ? lol.. i have no idea what this means.. Sorry i need a little more help with this one.. Also.. I got a keless entry fob on ebay and it works.. totally stoked considering my family has been using THE KEY for 8+ years.. stupid easy to program too...