So there is no danger of me leaking?

Hi


If there is a bad gasket or impending leak, synthetic could, due to the fact that it has a strong cleansing ability, strip away the gum and other deposits from dino oil which was temporarily keeping the impending leak dormant.

Synthetic, in of itself, does not cause leaks. I am a big proponent of synthetic lubes, especially motor oil.

Perhaps use of auto-rx, and then M1 would be the way to go. Dont cheap out on the filter either. I would recommend either a Baldwin, K&N OIL filter, or a Mobil One oil filter.

Ya especially if I am going to be running cleaning additives.

I am pretty sure i have a leak on my rear valve cover... dont think its my intake manifold. The only place I see sludge on the engine is where the threaded hole to pick up the block is at. I dont think it would leak much and my oil... Valvoline'* blended stuff... is super clean, running it for like 800 miles now and its still honey colored.

supertech oil filters are good?

Hi

I would physically clean the "grease" that has formed as a result of the leak. Becareful about what you use to clean it. I would suggest something like simple green, in small quantities, and a small amount of water to wash away the loosened oil. Again, be very careful..and be patient. It will likely take many applications.

Once cleaned, you can monitor the areas...and will likley spot the culprit. If its the valve cover..its not a difficult repair...just a pita due to the location.

I wouldnt use synthetic while undergoing a auto-rx treatment. A good quality dino will do nicely. After the treatments are finished, then go to a quality synthetic.

BTW, many people have found that their oil leaks have stopped after the auto-rx. Do a search on the subject over at the other site.

Also, with about 126k on your car...You will need at least two bottles of auto-rx. There is a link that is a step-by-step process in this treatment. I'll post it later when i get home.

Supertech is wally, I believe. Its adequate, but nothing more. I'd try wix if you cant get the others. Napa used to carry wix, but cant say if they still do.

About the idle suddering, i have experienced it also. We (me and my dad) have some ideas on it. As the engine gets warmer the idle speed drops (but u knew that...). Well if the engine drops speed while cool or just drops excessivly low while warm, the rotating mass of the 6 cylinders and the extended period between explosions causes the vibration sensation, and causes all the pumps to "vibrate" as well (explaining the possible feeling through brakes or steering). As to a solution i have none, except maybe getting an engine idler control or modifying the computer. This has no scientific proof or nuthin, just speculation, but if anybody else has any better ideas, please leme know cause id like to....

lght, I have heard of people changing their oil to a (0w-10w)-40 after 100k miles. Should I look to do this, would there be any dis/advantages?

Hi

Once you ascertain the leaking issue has been settled, I'd run either a quality dino or M1..10-30.

There are some calling for Delvac 1..which is a 5w-40, I believe. Its a diesel oil which has superb detergents...but the 40w will cost you some h/p.

Stick with the 10-30. If you go M1..use that viscosity the year round.

Thanks guy

Hi

BTW, what part of Ok are you from?

It is one of my favorite states, esp the western portion.