When driving my car with the AC on, in moderate traffic, it runs at about 235-240. If i shut the AC off it drops to about 210-220. It runs at these temps if stopped or driving. I have previously replaced the upper intake, the water pump, and the bypass tube do to coolant leaks. I have also flushed the radiator. But it continues to run hot. I am wondering if my AC pump is starting to go out...

might want to invest in a 180 t-stat i had the same problem and replaced my t-stat now it runs cooler.

Our cars typically run hot. Things to do that will help:


1. 180° thermostat. Won't run you 15° cooler, but it'll help prevent the intitial 'heat soak', and help preserve your new upper intake.

2. Add a product to your coolant. I forget what the various brands are, but basically it reduces the surface tension of the fluid for better surface contact in the coolant passages. It makes your cooling system more efficient.

3. Install an aftermarket auxilary transmission cooler. Pre-cooling the trans fluid can help reduce coolant temps as the trans fluid runs through the radiator.

4. Install a high-speed fan switch kit, or wire it yourself.

I've done all 4, and the combination helps immensely.

We've found some to run hot on their own, i know truewildman had a bad temp on his for a long time.

Will, I've heard/seen of this product from Redline called Water Wetter.
Is this something you would recommend(even for us die-hards that are running a 195 degree thermostat)?
P.*. As you may know my car does not have a temperature guage so I really don't know how hot it is until the little red light goes says so.

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp

Same stuff can be found on the shelf at the local store, Ol Timer. Under different brands. The physics and theory behind it are sound. Try local before you go redline.

It would be cool if someone tested this for us. I've got some in mine, but never checked before and after.

Will - didn't just going from your standard 3 core rad to a much thicker 5 core unit solve the heat problem :?: Did you install the manual fan switch before or after :?:

Bought Red Line water wetter last week, put it in my 93SSEI, no noticable difference. It still runs between 200 and 240. But, it has always run hot. My 94SE sits just below 200 and stays there.
Plan on taking 93 in for a complete flush. The shop uses B&G products Cost $90.00 any experience with this procedure?

My 5-core comment the other day was joke. Call it new math. Stock 3-core cooler, plus the factory external aux trans cooler, plus another trans cooler= 5 cores, but not all in the same device

Of all my cooling mods, the extra trans cooler probably did the most for everyday driving. The fan override is the quickest way to drop big spikes in temps, though. Of course, the fan override is more effective because of the extra trans cooler, too.

Good joke. Right over my head.

Ya, that'* what I'm finding now that the weather has finally warmed up. The manual fan speed over ride is working great. When it'* hot out and I'm idling at a stop light, the engine temp climbs. I hit the switch and watch the temp drop back down.

Do you run with the low speed on all the time, or just use it intermittently :?:
How long do you leave the hi speed on for :?:
When I kick the high speed on at idle, I can feel the engine speed drop for a sec due to the high amp load. Low speed is not noticeable.
Do you run with the A/C on all the time, with your much higher outside temps. :?: