Yesterday I started up my 93 and backed it of the garage (no issue). About 30 minutes later my wife went to leave in the car and turned the key and it was dead. The radio would come on, but the car wouldn't crank. Thinking it could be the resistor on the key, I tried our other ignition key and the car still wouldn't start. I alternated between the 2 different keys for about 2 minutes and still nothing (I even rubbed an eraser on both sides of the resistor on both keys--as mentioned in a previous post). I also tried starting it in neutral (thinking it could be the neutral safety switch) and still nothing.

So, I pushed the car back in the garage so I could jack it up and tap on the starter selenoid. I figured I'd try it one last time before jacking it up and the car started right up! I turned it off and tried the other key and it worked too. I alternated back and forth between the 2 keys about 6 times and it worked every time. The security light never stayed on in the dash once the car was running.

Since yesterday I've driven the car about 225 miles and it hasn't acted up once. Anybody have any ideas on what that could have been? Is there a security time-out on those key resistors from when the first one didn't make perfect contact?

The system will shut down for about 3min. The book says "The security light may remain on during this time". I had a similar problem with my car, began really slow like only once a week. Then it became more and more often. Crawling under the car and using a bar or start button on the starter will make it start right up so its either in the wiring or the neutral kill switch. Convenient enough soon after this the neutral kill switch wire broke off so I'm replacing my starter...if I ever get my car back.

Thanks for the reply...

Is there a way to disable the security system as it pertains to those resistors? I've heard of a procedure to cut the wire going to each contact and simply wire nut the two together so that they'll ALWAYS have contact without the stupid resistor in the key being there. Is there any truth in that? If so, what wires need to be spliced together??

I'm not sure what wires but I had a locksmith tell me that it is possible. I would guess that you would have to check the resistance in the pellet, look at how its hooked up, hook the wires up properly with an exact match resistor in the wiring and seal it up. Possible but surely not a very easy job

Just off the top of my head. Try hooking a multimeter up to the starter and turn the key to see if any voltage is reaching the starter. That should direct you to where the problem is. I'd hate for you to rip the security out of your car only to find out your starter was bunk.

Before my Starter died, this happen to me. The car would not start - I would just turn the key and the car would not crank. The starter went out a few months later.

I'll try the volt meter tip at the starter to see if it'* truely there. Thanks for the advice..

Be sure to check your connections...ALL of them...I had a similar problem...And it turned out to be the metal (copper) ring inside the plastic/rubber jacket on my batt cables (pos) where it connects to side post batt...it bother the F*&K out of me for months...would start sometimes and sometimes not..BUT would always start with a jump...
DROVE MY NUTTY....

Yea generally it starting with jumps means you have a bad connection somewhere.