I've tried searching through similar topics, but didn't really get anywhere. So...here it goes.
Last week I pulled into a Wawa parking lot and left my car running. When I got back in and went to back out of the space, my car stalled. It would not start back up..cranked just fine...but would not start. I wound up having to push it around back and left it overnight, as it was 2am. The next morning, I tried putting some dry gas in...thought maybe I had a bad batch of gas. It started right up and I drove home. A few hours later, I went to go somewhere....cranked and no start again. It will crank for a few seconds and stop....it'* not a continuous crank. The fuel pump is running, I hear it whine when I turn the key. The fuel filter, plugs and wires are only a few months old. I also have a remote starter, which means the VATS was bypassed....correct?
This has me stumped, my car was running great before this happened.
ECM? I hope not :(

check your fuel pressure althou you can the pump running it may be weak

I'm thinking that you're either having an issue with the ICM plate, or you're having a PCM issue. Having a remote start would mean that yes your VATS system is bypassed and no longer would be an issue. Granted this sounds nothing like a VATS problem, if it were you wouldn't be able to crank the car over period.

I don't think this really seems like a fuel pump problem because she can hear it, it will start after a few hours but not right away I'm assuming, and it seems like the starter just cuts out.

Actually now that I think about it, you may have some bad battery cables to......Impeding the draw to the starter while trying to start. These are the best Ideas I have for the conditions that I'm reading.

Good Luck

I'm thinking ICM too now. I just went outside and tinkered. I made sure all the vacuum lines were in place, noticed that the fuse that has something to do with the remote starter was blown....it was an inline fuse from the battery to the ICM....in a red high voltage wire. I'm sure there'* a technical term, but I'm not a technical person, lol. After I replaced that fuse, I made sure all the battery cables were okay and started the car. Or, attempted to start the car. It started, idled like crap and cut out. I tried again, and noticed light smoke coming from the ICM area. I had someone stand up front looking at the ICM as I tried again. Since it'* a tad windy, it was hard to tell exactly, but it'* definitely from that area. If I go buy a new ICM, can I replace it myself?

You should be able to. For now, try removing the ICM and checking the connections and the grounding plate for corrosion. If there is any, clean up good and reassemble with some dielectric grease. The smoke is not encouraging though as you know that electrical components don't work well after you let the smoke out...

I'm not too knowledgeable on remote starters....but I never seen one with a huge ***'d power wire with an inline fuse.

Do you have a huge stereo system in that rig?

I do have a mild "system". Guess that'* what the big red wire is for. See? Told you I'm not technical, hehe.
I'll go fiddle with the ICM. The smoke that I saw, wasn't extreme so hopefully I didn't fry anything. I'll let you know what progress I make, if any.

That'* what I'm assuming hahaha.

But doesn't make you an idiot....You're learning and that'* admirable.


Take Lash'* advice about the ICM. You can do it yourself with 2 sockets and 20 min of your valuable time..

Only a one beer job

same here
generally if installed right they get the power source from the fuse box

Welp, I cleaned the ICM connections, the coil connections and the battery cables and terminals. Still....good crank, no fire.
Could the ICM be gone? Obviously there is no spark. I mean, from a non-technical perspective
Advance Auto has them for $142.