Originally Posted by bill buttermore

Here'* how I do tough ones by hand. Pin the flex plate as previously described. Make sure the pin is strong stuff, as big in diameter as possible, and nice and tight against the block. After removing the wheel and splash shield, set up a jack stand to support a long 1/2" drive extension with the 30mm (?) 6-point socket on the crank bolt. That keeps you straight on the bolt. This is not optional.

Here is the same setup for removing the backwards bolt on the trans:


Then I typically use a 15" long flex handle over which I slip a 4-foot long cheater bar. Mine is heavy wall rectangular bar stock, but schedule 40 black pipe 1-1'2" would do nicely also. Set it up so the bar is at about 10 O' clock and push down on the end of the bar. That will give you an honest 800 ft-lb of torque if you are 200 lb like me. Still won't come? Stand on the end of the bar and bounce up and down while a friend provides the "impact" with a 4 or 8-pound sledge not too close to your feet. With that kind of force, something will give, and most often, it is the bolt breaking free.

The socket must fit tightly, is better if 6-point and must be held straight in line with,and all the way down on the bolt. Otherwise, with the kind of force you are applying, you will round the edges of a stuck bolt. If you have one, a breaker bar is a better choice, as flex handles will spread and break under this kind of force. And finally, 3/4" drive would be ideal. You should be able to rent the 3/4" drive stuff for not too much $.

Mark is right about the WD-40. It is useless as a penetrant. I like PB (Power Blaster penetrating oil) - it is very good stuff. When you get the bolt out, clean it up and apply some anti-seize to it so the next guy doesn't have to work so hard. You never know- it could be you!

Originally Posted by Supercharged!

Thanks for all the tips guys! Here'* what I did to get it loose:

I took a 5 ft steel pipe to use as a breaker bar and positioned it vertically through the engine bay on a 1/2 drive. To get enough clearance to move the breaker bar, I had to remove the hood. If you do this, be careful not to break the windshield! I rigged a preventative barrier out of 2x4s.

It was really stuck and I thought I was going to break something. What would a shop do if the bolt had broken or the head became stripped?