I'm sorry I haven't finished... IT took a ton of time to download pictures and I ran out of time. Here'* a link to my photo bucket. It has all the photos I took regarding the fix. Some are a little blurry but you'll see. Hope this helps.
... and Vital... I did NOT change the LIM gaskets... mileage 105,964. The clock starts now on Victor!
I'm going to re-read, check my tool list and add pics tomorrow. Out of time tonight!
OK, I found I don't have too many good pics so I've taken a few extras.I've also found that I do not know how to use Photo Shop 7 at all.... but here is my step by step with what would have helped me go faster.
I used the Haynes 19020 B/O/P Full Size as my guide. My Bonne is a '97 so any particulars will obviously refer to that year'* nuances.
Tools you DEFINITELY NEED
Sockets: Metric: 10,13,15mm
Std. : 5/16", 1/2",1/2" deep well, 5/8 spark plug,
Misc.: 4", 8", 12" extensions, Electrician'* pliers,
Relieve the fuel system pressure:
The fuse for the fuel pump is under the glove compartment. It'* the second one from the bottom closest to the door (Yellow 20A). Remove it and open the gas tank. Turn the key on for a second just to verify you got the right one.
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
Remove your fancy engine cover and air duct. Now it looks like you are really wrenching!
Unload the serpentine belt. Lay it out of the way.
Remove the alternator. There are 5 bolts and one electrical connector. You also need to remove the bracket from the alternator to the ignition module.
Disconnect the rear spark plug wires at both ends and get them out of there. There is a space where the alternator came from where you can reach in and use a spark plug socket with a 4" extension to remove all 3 of the back plugs.
Disconnect ALL of the Electrical connectors and vacuum lines on and around the UIM. Use the electrician'* pliers to free the wire restrainers from their locations. NOTE: the fuel injectors require that you squeeze the metal clip and jiggle the connector to release from the injector. This should allow you to move the wire bundles back away from the UIM except near the TB.
Remove the fuel rail. If you have the quick disconnnects, use a screwdriver on one side of the fuel line and your thumb on the other to squeeze the tabs and lift straight up. A rag around the rail input will catch most of the fuel. Disconnect both connectors and swing out of the way. Remove the 4 bolts holding the fuel rail assembly on and rock the entire rail while lifting from one side. I used a screwdriver under the mounting plate to work the injector for #1 cylinder free, then #3, then #5. I then did the same on the back going #2, #4, #6.
Lift them up and out!
Disconnect the EGR Valve outlet pipe using a screwdriver to open the clips on either side.
Disconnect the throttle cable and bracket and swing the bracket out of the way.
Remove the bolt that fastens the TB to the bracket on the side of the LIM. It is just above the crossover exhaust pipe towards the front of the car.
You are almost there ! ! ! Remove the UIM mounting bolts. I believe in replacing them in the same position. No sense in stripping a bolt hole. I just poke them through a piece of a paper bag to keep in the same order they came out. The two at the TB are extra long.
You should be able to lift the UIM up at this point. You need to lift from the passenger side and 'unhook' the TB from the bracket where you removed the fastener bolt. There are three bolts holding the throttle body onto the UIM. The bottom one closest to the front of the car can't be accessed until you lift the throttle body. Remove the three bolts and slide the TB off of the UIM studs. Now work the UIM out from under the wiring bundle and you are good to go!
Now on the new UIM I needed to transfer the old vacuum sensor and the plastic fitting it sat in. The one that came with the new UIM didn't let the sensor sit flush. [IMG]