Calling all 1996 SSEi onwers
#1
Calling all 1996 SSEi onwers
Hello guys in gals,
My car: 1996 SSEi with the week 4T60E-possible HD...EDIT
I have a need of your expertise on our cars.
I have found out that this is probably the worst year for transmissions for Bonneville'*.
I'm having my transmission rebuilt and wanted to ask you a few things:
What is the best way to keep these transmissions working there best?
What fluid do you recommend?
Can these transmissions be built stronger?---I am having a 'Hardened 4th gear output shaft installed---
With this in mind and knowing about this transmission'* weakness from the factory is it even wise to put a smaller pulley on the SC?
Apparently my car has a factory transmission cooler in front of the radiator about 6X10 or so, or at least looks factory.
Anyways, I do love Bonneville'* very much, just wish I knew not to get one from 96-97 do to weak transmissions and analog CPU'*
Todd
My car: 1996 SSEi with the week 4T60E-possible HD...EDIT
I have a need of your expertise on our cars.
I have found out that this is probably the worst year for transmissions for Bonneville'*.
I'm having my transmission rebuilt and wanted to ask you a few things:
What is the best way to keep these transmissions working there best?
What fluid do you recommend?
Can these transmissions be built stronger?---I am having a 'Hardened 4th gear output shaft installed---
With this in mind and knowing about this transmission'* weakness from the factory is it even wise to put a smaller pulley on the SC?
Apparently my car has a factory transmission cooler in front of the radiator about 6X10 or so, or at least looks factory.
Anyways, I do love Bonneville'* very much, just wish I knew not to get one from 96-97 do to weak transmissions and analog CPU'*
Todd
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
What?
You have me a little lost there...
If you have a 1997 SSEi, then you will have the 4T65-E HD
The NA 3800 Still used the 60-E for 97
But all of the SC 3800'* for 97 went to the 65-E HD
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You have me a little lost there...
If you have a 1997 SSEi, then you will have the 4T65-E HD
The NA 3800 Still used the 60-E for 97
But all of the SC 3800'* for 97 went to the 65-E HD
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#3
Originally Posted by jr's3800
What?
You have me a little lost there...
If you have a 1997 SSEi, then you will have the 4T65-E HD
The NA 3800 Still used the 60-E for 97
But all of the SC 3800'* for 97 went to the 65-E HD
You have me a little lost there...
If you have a 1997 SSEi, then you will have the 4T65-E HD
The NA 3800 Still used the 60-E for 97
But all of the SC 3800'* for 97 went to the 65-E HD
Todd
#4
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Install a full-blown shift kit (transgo 4T60E Jr). Consider an adjustable modulator dialed in about 1/2 to 2/3 full hard.
Replace the the stovepipe also (reverse reaction drum, coffee can, whatever you want to call it).
Ditch the factory cooler and install a thermostatically (viscosity) controlled larger replacement.
There is NOTHING wrong with the 4T60E under the L67. They last quite some time, especially under the S2 because the torque peak is at a higher rpm. They're pretty good up to aobut 120k stock, and will go farther than that with the rebuild/shiftkit.
Inspect the differential well also.
94 got some updates, 95 got even more, 96 got most factory updates before it was even built. You have the best year and most reliable of all the 4T60'*.
Replace the the stovepipe also (reverse reaction drum, coffee can, whatever you want to call it).
Ditch the factory cooler and install a thermostatically (viscosity) controlled larger replacement.
There is NOTHING wrong with the 4T60E under the L67. They last quite some time, especially under the S2 because the torque peak is at a higher rpm. They're pretty good up to aobut 120k stock, and will go farther than that with the rebuild/shiftkit.
Inspect the differential well also.
94 got some updates, 95 got even more, 96 got most factory updates before it was even built. You have the best year and most reliable of all the 4T60'*.
#6
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Nice catch, Barry.
Back on topic, a clarification:
BYPASS the trans cooler core in the radiator. This should be the bible-practice for ALL rebuilds. The core plugs easily after tranny failure, and can KILL a new trans by starving it for fluid.
For that reason, mine is bypassed and my OEM cooler (bigger than a 96 got) was ditched. I have a viscosity-controlled 18000 GVWR rated cooler now.
Back on topic, a clarification:
BYPASS the trans cooler core in the radiator. This should be the bible-practice for ALL rebuilds. The core plugs easily after tranny failure, and can KILL a new trans by starving it for fluid.
For that reason, mine is bypassed and my OEM cooler (bigger than a 96 got) was ditched. I have a viscosity-controlled 18000 GVWR rated cooler now.
#7
Originally Posted by willwren
Nice catch, Barry.
Back on topic, a clarification:
BYPASS the trans cooler core in the radiator. This should be the bible-practice for ALL rebuilds. The core plugs easily after tranny failure, and can KILL a new trans by starving it for fluid.
For that reason, mine is bypassed and my OEM cooler (bigger than a 96 got) was ditched. I have a viscosity-controlled 18000 GVWR rated cooler now.
Back on topic, a clarification:
BYPASS the trans cooler core in the radiator. This should be the bible-practice for ALL rebuilds. The core plugs easily after tranny failure, and can KILL a new trans by starving it for fluid.
For that reason, mine is bypassed and my OEM cooler (bigger than a 96 got) was ditched. I have a viscosity-controlled 18000 GVWR rated cooler now.
I'm going to check on how to bypass the factory cooler in the radiator.
Where do I buy the cooler you are using?
Todd.
#8
Originally Posted by toddster
Originally Posted by willwren
Nice catch, Barry.
Back on topic, a clarification:
BYPASS the trans cooler core in the radiator. This should be the bible-practice for ALL rebuilds. The core plugs easily after tranny failure, and can KILL a new trans by starving it for fluid.
For that reason, mine is bypassed and my OEM cooler (bigger than a 96 got) was ditched. I have a viscosity-controlled 18000 GVWR rated cooler now.
Back on topic, a clarification:
BYPASS the trans cooler core in the radiator. This should be the bible-practice for ALL rebuilds. The core plugs easily after tranny failure, and can KILL a new trans by starving it for fluid.
For that reason, mine is bypassed and my OEM cooler (bigger than a 96 got) was ditched. I have a viscosity-controlled 18000 GVWR rated cooler now.
I'm going to check on how to bypass the factory cooler in the radiator.
Where do I buy the cooler you are using?
Todd.
#9
#10
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
No, that'* a typical tube/fin cooler (although it does have a really cool insert in the straight sections to force the fluid to circulate in a spiral manner around the inside of the tubes, I used that same series for my inside intercooler core).
This is what I have. Overkill for most, but considering where you live, not a bad idea for a daily driver:
Funny note, if you do a Yahoo search on "18000 GVWR transmission cooler" the first hit is my Mod List page.
http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=180...p=mss&ei=UTF-8
Here you go:
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...yden-transaver
I have the ..... * H I T. Not the 18k. My mod list is wrong. I'll have to go measure, but I think I have the OC-1678, 24k, not the 1676. I'll update this a little later when I get a chance to go out and measure. I have that car today.
When you bypass the OEM radiator, just disconnect, re-route it to the new cooler, and leave the ports in the radiator open.
This is what I have. Overkill for most, but considering where you live, not a bad idea for a daily driver:
Funny note, if you do a Yahoo search on "18000 GVWR transmission cooler" the first hit is my Mod List page.
http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=180...p=mss&ei=UTF-8
Here you go:
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...yden-transaver
I have the ..... * H I T. Not the 18k. My mod list is wrong. I'll have to go measure, but I think I have the OC-1678, 24k, not the 1676. I'll update this a little later when I get a chance to go out and measure. I have that car today.
When you bypass the OEM radiator, just disconnect, re-route it to the new cooler, and leave the ports in the radiator open.