When I was under my car swapping my fuel pump, I noticed the arm had been knocked off the ELC sensor. So I snapped it back on. After I let the car back down, I noticed the rear end was a little low, probably because the rear was on ramps so the rear suspension was a little compresssed.. Only two of my fingers' width distance between tire and fender. So I got back under, popped the arm off, gave the nub on the sensor a little turn with needlenose pliers. The ELC jacked the rear end all the way up, over a full hand width, and I've got big hands. I toyed around with it for a while and settled on three fingers and snapped the arm back on. Four seemed like too high, two was too low. This has possiblities for lifting the rear for track racing. Just make sure to mark where normal ride height is.

Now, I don't know how long it has been off, or how long it will stay on, or if it even should come off. I might come back with some superglue when I'm sure I'm happy with the rear height.

Again, I'm not sure if it should come off. The nub on the sensor seemed a little jagged, so mine might be broken. Don't hold me resposible if you tug on yours and can't get it to pop back on.

when i changed the rear ball joints on mine, i noticed that the arm does not move freely at all, in any direction. My assumption would be there must be some kind of pin inside holding the arm in place....could pick one up at a parts yard though, off of almost any 85-Park Avenue, LeSabre, older Bonnevilles.....this was used in many types of GM vehicles.

You're right, I think there is some pin on the inside. Mine seems to be broken where that pin is.

After loosening the 10mm nut, you should be able to freely adjust the arm. Can either of you take pictures of your suspected problems? Remember that there are timers involved before the ELC makes an adjustment.

Adjusting the arm itself for track use is a waste of time and far too difficult. Open the trunk and pull the carpet back from the side of the right rear strut tower. Pull the 2-prong connector from the ELC/Inflator solonoid valve. Turn the Inflator on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, pull the ELC fuse to prevent it from venting.

Track setup done.

10 minutes? Mine will pump up in just about a minute and a half.

Mmkay, I looked at mine further. My "nub" is only about 1/4" long, should be about an inch. There is a hole in the nub (actually a shaft) and a pin is pushed in from the end. Mine is broken at that hole.

Bill, is there a slot in the metal part of the leveler arm under the head of that 10mm bolt?

On the ELC sensor, there'* a short, flat arm. Attached to this is a longer one (attached by two 10mm bolts). On the end of the longer flat arm is a nub (ball). The 'universal' arm, or round shaft with two black sockets attaches to this ball and the ball on the A-arm.

What part is the problem on?

To adjust it, you simply loosen the 10mm bolts slightly, and adjust the relationship between the sensor arms, then tighten. You must wait for the ELC timers to adjust (between 15 and 45 seconds depending on inflate or deflate cycles), and a little goes a long way.

Lay on your back under the car to do this, with the rear bumper skirt resting on your thighs so you can feel the change, or have a helper with a ruler handy.

There is only one bolt on mine where the long arm and short sensor arm meet (at A).
At B, is the shaft on the sensor. The short arm is held on by a pin through both coming in from the end, and a snap ring on the end of the shaft. My sensor shaft is broken.

I gotta go look at mine. I could swear I have 10mm at both A and B.

Here'* my sensor with nub

10mm bolt and sensor shaft

Flipside with pin still in place