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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-12-2004, 10:27 AM   #11
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Default Re: Pictures...

Originally Posted by KenBlaze
Ok here is a picture of the key i have. The rectangle-ish thingie in the key is the resistor right....?

This is the wire that came with the new key tumbler. The orange wire comming out means its Vats compatible?
Right. But take another look: it'* not an orange wire; it'* an orange sleeve containing two white wires.

Here is the old key and tumbler - the other half of the key is inside that piece on top. Is this all i need to figure out the resistance of my car/key/ignition...?
You can forget the broken-off end of the key that'* still in the old cylinder; the important part is the resistor chip on the piece of the key that you have. That is all you need to figure out the resistance that VATS wants to measure through the key, so your locksmith can pick the right key blank. (You don't have a second key?)

Ok, i figure that i can splice the old wire (white) and connect them to the new wires (orange) and "trick" my car into thinking its working - is that possible?
That _is_ how you repair it and that is how the system works; you won't "trick" your car at all. When you put the key in the ignition, the VATS circuit runs a current through the resistor in your key, using those white wires (current comes up the column through one wire, goes through the key and back down through the other wire), and checks to see that the key has the resistance that it expects to find.

If so then how do i know which wire goes to which wire?
It doesn't matter; the white wires are on either side of a loop going through your key cylinder.

And if not, then where does that orange wire go? I figure that the 'old' white wires on the left was connected to the ignition b4 it was broken off....right?

Am i just better off letting a shop go ahead and do wutever it is that they have to do??
I think so, because although you now have all the correct parts necessary to put it back together in working order, it'* still a pretty tricky process to do it right, not let a wire get munched in a tilt mechanism or whatever. A competent shop (or dealer) will have done this many times before.

Do i just take the pieces from picture 4 and get a key cut for the new tumbler from picture 5 with the right resistance? Cuz the old key tumbler still has half the other key is it?
The new key cylinder would normally be set up to match your existing key(*). If your only current key is broken, the locksmith is free to set up your new key cylinder with any key code, since you need not only a new cylinder but also a new key, right?

I guess all im tryin to say is that if you can help me, then wut do i do now?
You get it reassembled. Again, it looks like you already have everything you need, only (with all due respect) I don't think you're familiar enough with the process to do it yourself. At minimum you should have a shop manual to guide you through the reassembly, but it'* probably a better use of your time to pay a pro to reassemble it for you, since when it'* done, I doubt it will ever need to come apart again. Good luck.
-- Andy Green
'93 SSEi
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