Originally Posted by KenBlaze
Ok, my steering wheel column is like completely discombobulated (i dont know if i spelled that right but whatever...)
Actually, yes, you did spell it right.
im thinkin im just gonna goto a shop for them to put it back together. but if theres a way to get my car started with that 'other key' lemme know. How do i measure the resistance or get the right resistors or wut not? Also, how do i put in pictures like on the other fourms - i have a digi camera and i can show u guys exactly wut im lookin at if that helps. I really need my car back and i appreciate all the info you've given me so far. hopefully we can get this thing workin'....
Okay, hold on a second; let'* regroup here.
1) You have a replacement key cylinder to install. It'* got the two wires on it so we know it'* VATS-compatible.
2) You have at least one surviving car key, do you? At worst, you've got a broken stub with the resistor in it, yes?
3) Any competent hardware store or locksmith can match the resistor value; it'll be 1 of 15 possible values. (See page 4, the fifth page of this PDF user guide from BulldogSecurity to find the table of values: http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/pdf/Model781.pdf
) They can then cut you a new key; the resistor-chip key blanks are available to them and you don't need to go to the dealer. My local Ace Hardware uses a gadget called a VATS Interrogator to get the right resistance value off your old key.
4) So once you have your new ignition lock cylinder and one or two functioning keys, you're ready to put it all back together, or pay your shop to do it. The VATS module is not in the ignition lock cylinder; it'* elsewhere in the dash, and from what I've read here, it doesn't appear that you need to mess around with bypassing it anyway.