I am considering pulling the motor on the '98 LeSabre with a hoist.

Primary reason: fix the oil leak in the back cover.
Secondary reason: planning a cam and timing set install anyway, so might as well do it this way.
Third reason: to put an Intense false knock kit on the trans casing.

I guess I'll go ahead and pressure wash the bay, too.

SO, anything else I should be considering, maintenance or performance wise, that will be easier (or only possible) with the engine pulled?

(Car just hit 102k miles if that matters)

P.*., while on the topic, will this Harbor Freight hoist cut it?:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93840

I got a folding crane with twice that capacity for the same price at my local NAPA. I've also found Harbor Frieght to grossly exaggerate specs on hoists and stands. Their 750lb stand is built lighter than most 500lb stands I've seen. Both my engine stand and my hoist are built far better than anything harbor frieght offers (and I compared them personally at our local HF store).

Harbor Frieght is good for some things, but not others.

I personally wouldn't trust something like this from them. Not when the value of your engine and your personal safety are at risk.

I would consider changing the front (pump) seal on the transmission while you have the engine out of there. It can only be accessed when the trans is separated from the engine. IIRC, there is also an o-ring shaft seal that can be changed after the torque converter is pulled off the trans. Other things you might want to consider if you have the time and inclination: Carefully drilling, tapping and plugging two holes 180 degrees apart on the torque converter and providing access through the bottom of the bell housing to allow the transmission fluid in the torque converter to be completely drained from under the car. (Mercedes does it this way on some of their cars - it is a really neat feature.) I would be concerned about how to do this to ensure I did not introduce problems like drilling into an internal support structure or creating a high spot with the plugs that might interfere with the rotation of an internal component. If needed, this is a good time to clean your evaporator, change out the blower motor, change the rack, replace the crumbling insulating cover on the heater box or blower motor.

Will,

I will shop around on the hoist; is the NAPA one foldable / tear-down-able? Storage space is at a premium for me.

Good idea on the seals. Is the TC itself a "wear item" I should consider replacing?
I have no reason to suspect a problem with my current original TC, and it'* exactly the stall speed I want...I just wonder if I'll kick myself later for not refreshing it while I'm in there

This idea is as intriguing as it is scary...got any links or illustrations?

Will clean the evaporator...everything else you listed is fine AFAIK; are any of these things that can only be done with the motor out (or are 90+% easier)? (Rack, probably, eh?) If the insulating cover is crumbling, would I be able to see that right now (i.e., motor in)?

My 2-ton folding hoist:



More pics here:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...hoist&start=60

8-ton ram, 4 boom positions (2 ton, 1.5ton, 1 ton, 1/2 ton based on reach), Quck release pins. Strong enough to lift the entire weight of my car. With the drivetrain in it and full of fuel.

I was just at NAPA at lunch and they have two of them (and my engine stand) sitting on the floor ready for sale. I would expect this same hoist to be available at nearly all NAPA stores coast to coast.

Give me 10 minutes and I can diassemble it to take up half the wall space that it does when folded.

I think there is a lockup clutch in the TC that can wear. But, I'm not sure. If only there were a Gearhead around we could ask...: Anyway, I believe a new one can be had for $75-$100.

Nope. Just saw it on my old 190E, and thought,"Boy, that would be a good thing for the Bonneville." If you do it, you could write it up for the rest of us!

Just easier.

Probably, but it will be a lot easier to see after you pull the motor. The place that usually disintegrates is above and near the rear exhaust manifold.

Bill,

According to the FSM, to pull the torque converter oil seal requires a J 41103 tool set:


Is that really necessary, or will a flat blade screwdriver work?