LIM Issue Seems Likely
#1
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LIM Issue Seems Likely
Given the reputation of the head gasket, it seems less likely, but here'* the situation.
Noticed the oil pressure gauge was reading a tick lower (around the 30 PSI mark instead of straight up, at 40 PSI), so I checked the oil, and found that rather quickly, it needed .5-1 quarts. Weird, it was fine about two weeks ago. I pull the cap and find what looks a lot like condensed moisture on the inside of the cap...along with a distinct rust-like colored residue.
That sinking feeling comes.
I smell the cap, and it doesn't smell just like oil.
Next step, look at the coolant reservoir. Looks not so good. It appears as though there are perceptible remnants of "scum" on at least the forward (facing) wall of the reservoir...like that of scum left on a bathtub. Most likely oil, it would appear. Smells like the stale air you get when you open the valve of a bicycle tire. The level in the coolant reservoir, however, does not appear to have gone down (yet).
My first thought was that my head gasket is blown, and the oil and coolant are now freely mixing.
Second thought, "Crap."
No external symptoms that are visible around the supercharger, the head, or the block. Or here - everything on the outside looks pretty clean like this:
Now, I have read a great many threads that pertain to it, and I understand that with supercharged vehicles the LIM can still be an issue, is far more likely than the HG - and of the two possibilities, I would much rather it was the LIM than the HG.
First off, I'm changing the oil today.
Second: Acquire - LIM gasket, seal for the intake mani & get down.
Now, I want to be as prepared as possible for this so I can get it fixed and running again ASAP and in one mech session.
I would like suggestions for what else I may need. Somebody (WillWren, I believe) mentioned that some bolts that are used, are stretch bolts. In my experience, these have only been used in securing the head to the block. Is that the case here, or do I need to pick up a set of bolts to mate the LIM to the head?
In the process of dismounting the LIM from the head, would it be wise/easier/do I have to separate the blower from the LIM? Should I do it just to replace the gasket between the supercharger and the LIM? If so, what about those bolts?
Heater Inlet pipe?
Lower Temp thermostat? 160º is the trick piece, yes?
Spark Plugs?
Should I bother with the Injector seals?
Easier to replace the drive belt tensioner at the same time (sounds like bearings are wearing out)? Do the two pulleys typically come attached to the tensioner bracket?
What'* this I hear about using RVT silicone (Permatex, I assume) in addition to the gaskets?
I should probably replace the gasket between the throttle body and the blower, yeah?
Replace DexCool with Prestone LongLife (DexCool compatible) seems to be the popular lean when it comes to new coolant, yes?
Do I have to de-pressurize the fuel lines before I remove the fuel rail, or can that just remain affixed atop the supercharger? Do the fuel rail quick connectors seal the fuel lines when disconnected?
Any other suggestions?
Right now, I'm going to start looking for my compression test gauge - perhaps I can glean some more definitive information.
Oh yeah - are there any particular places that I should look for parts because they make great products and have great prices? Other than that, I'll probably just go to the dealer. Nevermind - Intense motorsports seems to have it all & is reasonably priced.
Thanks.
================================================== =====================
Can't find the compression test gauge - hopefully it'* just the LIM.
Noticed the oil pressure gauge was reading a tick lower (around the 30 PSI mark instead of straight up, at 40 PSI), so I checked the oil, and found that rather quickly, it needed .5-1 quarts. Weird, it was fine about two weeks ago. I pull the cap and find what looks a lot like condensed moisture on the inside of the cap...along with a distinct rust-like colored residue.
That sinking feeling comes.
I smell the cap, and it doesn't smell just like oil.
Next step, look at the coolant reservoir. Looks not so good. It appears as though there are perceptible remnants of "scum" on at least the forward (facing) wall of the reservoir...like that of scum left on a bathtub. Most likely oil, it would appear. Smells like the stale air you get when you open the valve of a bicycle tire. The level in the coolant reservoir, however, does not appear to have gone down (yet).
My first thought was that my head gasket is blown, and the oil and coolant are now freely mixing.
Second thought, "Crap."
No external symptoms that are visible around the supercharger, the head, or the block. Or here - everything on the outside looks pretty clean like this:
Now, I have read a great many threads that pertain to it, and I understand that with supercharged vehicles the LIM can still be an issue, is far more likely than the HG - and of the two possibilities, I would much rather it was the LIM than the HG.
First off, I'm changing the oil today.
Second: Acquire - LIM gasket, seal for the intake mani & get down.
Now, I want to be as prepared as possible for this so I can get it fixed and running again ASAP and in one mech session.
I would like suggestions for what else I may need. Somebody (WillWren, I believe) mentioned that some bolts that are used, are stretch bolts. In my experience, these have only been used in securing the head to the block. Is that the case here, or do I need to pick up a set of bolts to mate the LIM to the head?
In the process of dismounting the LIM from the head, would it be wise/easier/do I have to separate the blower from the LIM? Should I do it just to replace the gasket between the supercharger and the LIM? If so, what about those bolts?
Heater Inlet pipe?
Lower Temp thermostat? 160º is the trick piece, yes?
Spark Plugs?
Should I bother with the Injector seals?
Easier to replace the drive belt tensioner at the same time (sounds like bearings are wearing out)? Do the two pulleys typically come attached to the tensioner bracket?
What'* this I hear about using RVT silicone (Permatex, I assume) in addition to the gaskets?
I should probably replace the gasket between the throttle body and the blower, yeah?
Replace DexCool with Prestone LongLife (DexCool compatible) seems to be the popular lean when it comes to new coolant, yes?
Do I have to de-pressurize the fuel lines before I remove the fuel rail, or can that just remain affixed atop the supercharger? Do the fuel rail quick connectors seal the fuel lines when disconnected?
Any other suggestions?
Right now, I'm going to start looking for my compression test gauge - perhaps I can glean some more definitive information.
Oh yeah - are there any particular places that I should look for parts because they make great products and have great prices? Other than that, I'll probably just go to the dealer. Nevermind - Intense motorsports seems to have it all & is reasonably priced.
Thanks.
================================================== =====================
Can't find the compression test gauge - hopefully it'* just the LIM.
#2
Re: LIM Issue Seems Likely
Noticed the oil pressure gauge was reading a tick lower (around the 30 PSI mark instead of straight up, at 40 PSI)
I checked the oil, and found that rather quickly, it needed .5-1 quarts. Weird, it was fine about two weeks ago
I pull the cap and find what looks a lot like condensed moisture on the inside of the cap...along with a distinct rust-like colored residue
That sinking feeling comes.
I smell the cap, and it doesn't smell just like oil.
I smell the cap, and it doesn't smell just like oil.
Next step, look at the coolant reservoir. Looks not so good. It appears as though there are perceptible remnants of "scum" on at least the forward (facing) wall of the reservoir...like that of scum left on a bathtub. Most likely oil, it would appear.
The level in the coolant reservoir, however, does not appear to have gone down (yet).
Now, I have read a great many threads that pertain to it, and I understand that with supercharged vehicles the LIM can still be an issue, is far more likely than the HG - and of the two possibilities, I would much rather it was the LIM than the HG.
Somebody (WillWren, I believe) mentioned that some bolts that are used, are stretch bolts. In my experience, these have only been used in securing the head to the block. Is that the case here, or do I need to pick up a set of bolts to mate the LIM to the head?
In the process of dismounting the LIM from the head, would it be wise/easier/do I have to separate the blower from the LIM? Should I do it just to replace the gasket between the supercharger and the LIM? If so, what about those bolts?
Heater Inlet pipe?
Lower Temp thermostat? 160º is the trick piece, yes?
Spark Plugs?
Should I bother with the Injector seals?
Easier to replace the drive belt tensioner at the same time (sounds like bearings are wearing out)?
Do the two pulleys typically come attached to the tensioner bracket?
What'* this I hear about using RVT silicone (Permatex, I assume) in addition to the gaskets?
I should probably replace the gasket between the throttle body and the blower, yeah?
Replace DexCool with Prestone LongLife (DexCool compatible) seems to be the popular lean when it comes to new coolant, yes?
this is what you DONT want
Do I have to de-pressurize the fuel lines before I remove the fuel rail, or can that just remain affixed atop the supercharger?
Do the fuel rail quick connectors seal the fuel lines when disconnected?
Any other suggestions?
Right now, I'm going to start looking for my compression test gauge - perhaps I can glean some more definitive information.
#3
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Wow! That was extremely thorough.
1) Oil pressure gauge usually runs straight up (@40psi) with slight variance given speed & engine temp.
2) Yeah, a coolant sort of smell
3) Yes, it is the unholy DexCool! Red Death!
I'll have to see if Kragen has an equivalent for the coolant elbow.
Any recommended venders for the belt tensioner? Never mind, I read the rest of your post - looks like Sears is my huckleberry.
I'll just pickup the FI seals at the stealership tomorrow - can't cost that much there.
Thanks!
1) Oil pressure gauge usually runs straight up (@40psi) with slight variance given speed & engine temp.
2) Yeah, a coolant sort of smell
3) Yes, it is the unholy DexCool! Red Death!
I'll have to see if Kragen has an equivalent for the coolant elbow.
Any recommended venders for the belt tensioner? Never mind, I read the rest of your post - looks like Sears is my huckleberry.
I'll just pickup the FI seals at the stealership tomorrow - can't cost that much there.
Thanks!
#4
oil pressure sounds normal, thats good.
Never heard of Kragen before. When you tell them what you want, dont call it a coolant elbow, call it the heater hose elbow.
You can either get the tensioner at the dealership, or most parts stores will also carry it. I myself would get a used unit as it will be much cheaper. Check out www.car-part.com
Never heard of Kragen before. When you tell them what you want, dont call it a coolant elbow, call it the heater hose elbow.
You can either get the tensioner at the dealership, or most parts stores will also carry it. I myself would get a used unit as it will be much cheaper. Check out www.car-part.com
#5
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Hey, I didn't recognise you with the bitchin new avatar!
Kragen Auto Parts , Schuck'* Auto Parts, Checker Auto Parts, and Murry'* Discount Auto Stores have the same parent, just different regional branding.
I think I'll just try getting the pulley itself, instead of the entire apparatus...it sounds like the bearings are shrieking in pain once they warm up.
So was that rotten-apple-in-the-radiator picture your ride?
Kragen Auto Parts , Schuck'* Auto Parts, Checker Auto Parts, and Murry'* Discount Auto Stores have the same parent, just different regional branding.
I think I'll just try getting the pulley itself, instead of the entire apparatus...it sounds like the bearings are shrieking in pain once they warm up.
So was that rotten-apple-in-the-radiator picture your ride?
#7
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Yeah...I hope I never crack mine open and see that!
Do you know if the supercharger O-ring seals are something that I can replace without having everything torn apart? Where do they even go?
Oh yeah - can you think of any special tools that I may need for this procedure? That includes Torx drivers - I may only have a 14 & a 16.
Do you know if the supercharger O-ring seals are something that I can replace without having everything torn apart? Where do they even go?
Oh yeah - can you think of any special tools that I may need for this procedure? That includes Torx drivers - I may only have a 14 & a 16.
#8
if you are talking about the yellow o-rings that go between the supercharger and LIM, they go right here. They are a step you can't bypass.
If you are talking about replacing the seals inside the SC nosedrive, its a completely different story. Lets not get into that.
Special tools? Just grab a socket wrench and your 10mm, 13mm and 15mm sockets. You will need a torque wrench to tighten the LIM bolts. Never heard of a 14 and 16 torx driver, but you might need a T47 to get the belt off.
If you are talking about replacing the seals inside the SC nosedrive, its a completely different story. Lets not get into that.
Special tools? Just grab a socket wrench and your 10mm, 13mm and 15mm sockets. You will need a torque wrench to tighten the LIM bolts. Never heard of a 14 and 16 torx driver, but you might need a T47 to get the belt off.
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YES! Those are exactly what I'm talking about! I'm very glad I asked.
Where do you get these pictures that apply exactly to what I'm referring to so fast?
Glad to hear it about the tools...the belt doesn't scare me...I'll just ape that bit off, real Rambo style, yeah.
..now getting it back on..
Thanks again, homie!
Where do you get these pictures that apply exactly to what I'm referring to so fast?
Glad to hear it about the tools...the belt doesn't scare me...I'll just ape that bit off, real Rambo style, yeah.
..now getting it back on..
Thanks again, homie!