Oh Crap, UIM or Engine Failure?
08-21-2005, 06:12 PM
#11
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll see if I can recover the old UIM. It'* in the dumpster at my dad'* shop. Not sure when the garbage guy comes, I'll see if I can get over there tomorrow.
As soon as the engine quit on me and I saw the rad fluid was empty, we drained all the oil. So the oil and the antifreeze are all new. It runs great now, but I'm going to change the oil and rad fluid again in 1000 miles to get rid of any contaminants that may have remained.
I wish we had done the lowers but I wasn't there when he was working on it. Hopefully I can get another 50k out of it as-is, though. The car runs tons better now that the fuel injectors, throttle body have been cleaned, plus new spark plugs.
Thanks everyone for the help!
As soon as the engine quit on me and I saw the rad fluid was empty, we drained all the oil. So the oil and the antifreeze are all new. It runs great now, but I'm going to change the oil and rad fluid again in 1000 miles to get rid of any contaminants that may have remained.
I wish we had done the lowers but I wasn't there when he was working on it. Hopefully I can get another 50k out of it as-is, though. The car runs tons better now that the fuel injectors, throttle body have been cleaned, plus new spark plugs.
Thanks everyone for the help!
09-02-2005, 01:17 AM
#13
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by willwren
Secondly, I hope you changed the oil before your crank bearings and rods rust.
(Suspect we had IM failure today and our oil is full of water.)
09-02-2005, 02:18 AM
#14
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Rust starts immediately. How bad or how long is anyone'* guess. The best practice is to drain it IMMEDIATELY. I saw one here at one time that rusted the crank bearings in a little over a week. Might have been an extreme case, though, or the bearings may have been worn/heat damaged, or scored already.
09-02-2005, 09:58 AM
#18
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Next suggestion is order the parts and get it fixed soon as possible also. Get all the water out of where it doesn't belong.
I see willwren is from Corvallis.
willwren - any mechanics you would recommend in the Sweet Home or Lebanon area? Haven't been here long enough to know who is good, and, trustworthy (and hopefully affordable).
09-02-2005, 10:12 AM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by MLB
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Next suggestion is order the parts and get it fixed soon as possible also. Get all the water out of where it doesn't belong.
I see willwren is from Corvallis.
willwren - any mechanics you would recommend in the Sweet Home or Lebanon area? Haven't been here long enough to know who is good, and, trustworthy (and hopefully affordable).
I replaced my lower intake gaskets, coolant bypass Elbow, and upper intake... Had to do the water pump too...
If you do the work on your own you will be out a little better than $200... The shop will charge $700-$800... I could do this job in a matter of a few hours if I wanted to...
Have a look at my thread, there are a couple of others like it some place... May give you an idea of what you are getting into...
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...87bf3478babe64
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
09-02-2005, 10:13 AM
#20
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Originally Posted by MLB
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Next suggestion is order the parts and get it fixed soon as possible also. Get all the water out of where it doesn't belong.
I see willwren is from Corvallis.
willwren - any mechanics you would recommend in the Sweet Home or Lebanon area? Haven't been here long enough to know who is good, and, trustworthy (and hopefully affordable).
Actually..if you've done work on cars before and only fear the electronics..there'* nothing to fear. Bolts still look the same and gaskets still seal the same... the electronics boil down to this.. you can never put the distributor in 180 degrees off and you don't have to hope the carb is close enough to fire so you can dial it in.
I'm looking to probably do mine soon..I have a slight coolant usage and I think a little oil seepage happening. It'* pretty straight forward from everything I've seen and heard.