1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

NOOB Question... how to change the oil?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-30-2007, 02:42 PM
  #11  
Junior Member
 
wjcollier07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
wjcollier07 is on a distinguished road
Default

Ok, well my reasoning for synthetic is...

Extended change intervals
Minimal viscosity breakdown at extreme temperatures
average higher oil pressure
normally less varnish buildup than with conventional oil
the list goes on...

but conventional oils are just fine, but if you're going to go with conventional, don't spend $16, just get CHEAP oil and change it often. if you're going to go with synthetic...don't go cheap, cheap synthetics are about as useful as expensive dino oil. no point.
Old 09-30-2007, 03:21 PM
  #12  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
cosmic665's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
cosmic665 is on a distinguished road
Default

Originally Posted by wjcollier07
Ok, well my reasoning for synthetic is...

Extended change intervals
Minimal viscosity breakdown at extreme temperatures
average higher oil pressure
normally less varnish buildup than with conventional oil
the list goes on...

but conventional oils are just fine, but if you're going to go with conventional, don't spend $16, just get CHEAP oil and change it often. if you're going to go with synthetic...don't go cheap, cheap synthetics are about as useful as expensive dino oil. no point.
I mean't to say it'* about $14-16 for a 5 quart container. Actually, castrol syntec was $17 for a 5 quart if memory serves me. Mobil1 was $21. humm......
Old 09-30-2007, 03:34 PM
  #13  
Junior Member
 
wjcollier07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
wjcollier07 is on a distinguished road
Default

Or you can get regular cheap dino oil for like $5-7....choices...choices...
Old 09-30-2007, 03:58 PM
  #14  
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
willwren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
willwren is on a distinguished road
Default

Cosmic, 3800'* are VERY resistant to wear. A high-mileage oil isn't really ever necessary.

Switch to synthetic any time you like and extend your interval. These are long-lasting performance motors. They are not hard on internal parts or oil.
Old 09-30-2007, 07:29 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
 
Barry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 509
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Barry is on a distinguished road
Default

Don't run out and buy the Chilton'* manual #28200. It is virtually the same as Haynes. Haynes bought out Chilton'*. See this thread:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=85433
Old 09-30-2007, 08:09 PM
  #16  
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
willwren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
willwren is on a distinguished road
Default

I personally think Chilton'* 28200 is a very good manual. It'* more than 90% of the members here will ever need. It'* much more comprehensive, accurate, and detailed than Haynes or Clymer manuals.

It doesn't matter if Hillary Clinton owns it. It'* still a great manual. I personally own two of them. One for keepers, one for loaner to locals.
Old 09-30-2007, 09:30 PM
  #17  
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
 
Barry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 509
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Barry is on a distinguished road
Default

They are virtually the same. I bought the Haynes and was not that impressed with it, so I bought the Chilton'*. At the store where I got it, they are wrapped in plastic so you can't thumb through them and see what is inside. When I got it home, I was disappointed to see that it was virtually the same as the Haynes. Pictures were the same as were indexes and subject matter. My point is, if he has the Haynes, don't bother with the Chilton'*. It will be a waste of money. This point was well discussed in the thread I referred to, but some still seem to not believe they are virtually the same, at least for these model/year cars.
Old 09-30-2007, 09:37 PM
  #18  
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
willwren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
willwren is on a distinguished road
Default

I have the FSM'* for both cars, as well as Chilton'*, Haynes, and Clymer manuals.

Chilton'* is very much NOT virtually the same as Haynes. Thumbing through is no way to judge them.

Use the Chilton'*, you'll come to appreciate it. Use the Haynes or Clymer, and you'll want to burn it. I've owned all these manuals for nearly 5 years. They each have their strong points and weak points, but of the 3 aftermarket manuals, Chilton'* is by far the best and worth every penny spent on it.

Most members here that own the chilton'* will agree with me.

Time to get back on topic though.
Old 09-30-2007, 10:33 PM
  #19  
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
 
Andx0r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Andx0r is on a distinguished road
Default

Originally Posted by wjcollier07
And if you need any more guidance for what to use...

If going synthetic, which is excellent, of course, go with either
Pennzoil Platinum
or
Mobil 1 (more commonly used)

and for an EXCELLENT filter, go with a Purolator PureONE (recommended), WIX (Napa GOLD) or just a Delco.

If sticking with conventional oil, just choose one you like and change it every 3k.
Delco'* aren't that great of a filter. They're the same Champion Laboratories filter that STP and Bosch sell for our cars. You can tell if the stock has been on the shelf for a while if the filter cage is still metal. New ones have the same plastic cage as the STP and Bosch filters.

The best-built filter Champ Labs does for our cars is the Mobil 1, but those are expensive. I use Wix filters myself. Same price as a Fram, but not made of cardboard and glue. And, whatever dino oil happens to be on sale. The Carquest Red and Blue filters are also made by Wix.
Old 10-01-2007, 06:36 AM
  #20  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
cosmic665's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
cosmic665 is on a distinguished road
Default

Originally Posted by willwren
I have the FSM'* for both cars, as well as Chilton'*, Haynes, and Clymer manuals.

Chilton'* is very much NOT virtually the same as Haynes. Thumbing through is no way to judge them.

Use the Chilton'*, you'll come to appreciate it. Use the Haynes or Clymer, and you'll want to burn it. I've owned all these manuals for nearly 5 years. They each have their strong points and weak points, but of the 3 aftermarket manuals, Chilton'* is by far the best and worth every penny spent on it.

Most members here that own the chilton'* will agree with me.

Time to get back on topic though.
IS the FSM better than chiltons? If I had to choose between chiltons or FSM which should I get? I lprefer manuals which provide a decent amount of pictures and or explaination and proceduturs. Coming from a motorcycle background I used to buy the hayns, clymer & FSM just to read all 3 different procedures for maintenance then choose the best method. From past experience the clymer & FSM usually provided me with what I needed to know.


Quick Reply: NOOB Question... how to change the oil?



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:41 AM.