I got a great deal on a '94 olds 88 L27 although it has a couple problems it runs perfect and for $1000 and 100k i am not complaining.

Anyway the cruise control does not work. I have been driving for a while and have never seen any check engine light.

And yes I do read posts here and I do know it is an OBD 1 System with an OBD II connector. Therefore autozone will not do a checkup and It will be stealership time. ($50 for a code read which includes a minor test drive!!!??!)

I checked all fues and they were fine.

I replaced 3 vaccum lines, the 2 loop ones on the TB and the one (3/16) from the TB to the firewall.

Where do I go from here?

I know it is similar to my '87 but I think it is a little different system and I am LOST.

What should I do?

Because I don't know much about that year, i'll give you what I know about my '89. On the firewall, is a vacuum line, right next to the break booster, make sure that one is plugged in. Also on the firewall, there is a thing in the center, with a large vacuum line connected to it, and then also, the cruise controller has a vacuum line to it [or so I think it does]. Check that one too. I see you replaced a couple, but I know that isn't all of them, so my suggestion is if you see ANY of them that have not been replaced, replace them! Trust me, it'* worth it.


-justin

Yes I did replace all hoses except for the big one that goes inside but it is in new condition.


I checked all fuses inside and under the hood and all were good. My chilton or hayes said it could have a relay.....

Talked to the stealership and they said there is no such relay.


What should I do?

replace the servo????

It is probably your multifunction directional switch gone bad.

Just did mine cost over $100 bucks - see if you can get it from a junk yard.

Alot of GM cars use the same style switch - some have different end connectors or may be a different length - just look to see they have the same mounting post a thin shaft with an alignment flange.

Real easy to change no tools needed - just pull directional post straight out and disconnect one pigrtail connector.

Also, You can check it with a multimeter to see if it is bad first. The pigtail connector is entirely for cruise control - nothing on it for lights or directional signals

Dont waste your money just yet! I have a 94 bonne and had the same problem...

1) turn on your cruise and see if the car responds at all (for example feels like its trying to hold speed but cant)

If anything happens at all then your most likely problem is vacuum or servo (since you replaced the lines its not vacuum)

The servo, after all, is about $60 brand new without turning in your old one. If the cruise was used a ton or not at all in its old life then the servo could be bad

My cruise was used everytime the car was run, and after about 20 miles it starts to loose about 1mph/ 10 miles. I know it'* the servo, however I'm going to wait for it to crap out. Maybe try removing the servo, and see if it has pressure [ie, putting finger on vaccum nipple, and trying to move the shaft]. Or maybe put some oil in the vaccum line.


-justin

my 94 is doing the same thing and we have rpelaced the servo and the whole stalk thing like twice. every once in a great while, it will work until you tap the brake and then it is gone again for about 2 or 3 months. I would like working cruise!

Thanks for all the reponses, they are surely helpful

If I was not clear, I had a bad vac line in my last 3.8 and it lost power in holding a given speed. This current problem however means no cruise control at all at any time, it does not even try to hold the speed.

I talked to a highly rated shop for these cars and they claim complete diagnosis will be 1 full hour at 70 per hour. I went to autozone today and asked to see what sort of OBD1 (with II Connector) setups they had, the guy thought I was joking and assumed I am not smart enough to identify a connector. So he was conviced his OBDII scan tool would work when it did not he got his boss and did they thought there was something wrong with my pcm

So since I cannot get a code reader, what are my options. If I have to pay 70 bucks for a test at a shop I should just by my own code reader or scanner. What is the cheapest half decent quality scan tool I can get with OBD1 with an OBD II connector?

Also is GMpartsdirect.com supposed to display prices?

Check the the directional switch functions properly only need a cheap ohm meter.

Get any Ohm meter and check for continuity between wires when activating switches for cruise.

Where directional post mounts on steering column you will find a small plastic cover.
Remove that cover by giving a slight tug. This will expose the area where the connector is plugged in to ( I am referring to the pigtail wire'* connector coming from the directional switch)

Only 4 wires on connector - (don't have wire colors handy but should be easy to figure out since only 4 wires)
1 common
2 accel / resume
3 coast
4 set

Attach your black lead of your ohm meter to the common wire and check that the other three toggle on/off
*Also check that they are not shorted together when you toggle a switch on/off make sure the switch you are activating is only changing status on 1 wire out a time.

If the directional post checks ok I would then check your brake switch if it is stuck or shorthed. One of the functions of the brake switch deactives the cruise. It is a multifunction switch so it does controls more than just brake lites.

First check your directional since it is real easy to get to and do.

Good luck