new pads and now softer feeling brake peddle?
#12
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Well, if bleeding needs to be done, do it right. FLUSH the brake fluid completely. Over time the fluid will absorb moisture, lowering its boiling point. When brakes get hot, they heat the fluid up too, so the higher the boiling point of the fluid, the better.
As a very cheap alternative (as in, doing this by myself), whenever I do a front brake job, I take off the master cylinder cap, and syringe what I can out of the reservoir until there is just enough fluid at the bottom to keep air from entering the system. I then go onto chaning the front brakes. When you push the pistons back inside the calipers, more fluid goes into the reservoir. Once the brakes are done and bolted in, I again syringe what came out, then put in fresh fluid, Though it isn't a full changeout, every little bit helps.
As a very cheap alternative (as in, doing this by myself), whenever I do a front brake job, I take off the master cylinder cap, and syringe what I can out of the reservoir until there is just enough fluid at the bottom to keep air from entering the system. I then go onto chaning the front brakes. When you push the pistons back inside the calipers, more fluid goes into the reservoir. Once the brakes are done and bolted in, I again syringe what came out, then put in fresh fluid, Though it isn't a full changeout, every little bit helps.
#13
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Originally Posted by rogers
I was replying back to BonnevillesSince62 about how many clicks it takes my ebrake to lock the rear tires. I have to put it to the floor, and I know I have to adjust them now. I also have to bleed the brake system and maybe that will help make my peddle less soft
#14
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Originally Posted by sandrock
As a very cheap alternative (as in, doing this by myself), whenever I do a front brake job, I take off the master cylinder cap, and syringe what I can out of the reservoir until there is just enough fluid at the bottom to keep air from entering the system. I then go onto chaning the front brakes. When you push the pistons back inside the calipers, more fluid goes into the reservoir. Once the brakes are done and bolted in, I again syringe what came out, then put in fresh fluid, Though it isn't a full changeout, every little bit helps.
But, I don't like to let the old dirty fluid that accumulates behind the caliper piston flow back through the valving in the master cylinder. This can damage the master cylinder, and I think it explains why a lot of folks end up replacing the MC a few months after changing the pads. Rather, I open the caliper bleed screw before slowly depressing the piston when changing pads. That way, the dirty fluid can be flushed out the bleeder screw through a hose into a pan.
Having said all that, if your brakes were not soft before you changed your pads, and you did not open any brake lines, the most likely reason for a soft pedal is that the pads have not worn into the rotors. This is more noticeable when new pads are used on worn rotors. Adjusting the rear brakes will bring the pedal up, but should not affect the softness of the pedal.
#15
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Rogers, Why are we still debating this over a week later?
Everyone here has said bleed the brakes.
Why don't you go out and bleed them, and tell us how it feels. That would be the proper solution at this point, instead of continuing to ask opinions.
Everyone here has said bleed the brakes.
Why don't you go out and bleed them, and tell us how it feels. That would be the proper solution at this point, instead of continuing to ask opinions.
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