New Member in need of help
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New Member in need of help
My girlfriend has a 95 SSEI with many issues. I did some searches and didn't find the info I was looking for and my time is a little short today because I have 8 guest coming to the house in a few hours for dinner.
I put a new waterpump on her car about a month ago. After that I started getting some check engine lights and the exaust smelled rich. I had the codes read and got a code for MAF. I replaced it and then I was getting a code for bank 1 lean so I put a new O2 sensor on it. Still running bad, erratic idle, rich mixure...etc. She took it to the dealer and they said it had a bad MAF. I got the MAF replaced by NAPA for no charge and it seems to run better but it cuts out at times. She said it seemed to cut out at 2000RPM. I drove it today and it felt like the torque converer was momentarily unlocking around 2000RPM. If you held it there it would drop out...back in...back out...back in. Now I'm thinking it could be the ign. cutting out momentarily also. I shut the car off, go in to the store for 10 minutes and when I return it doesn't want to start. Actually it cranked and the died immediatly. I did this about 4 or 5 times and then I get under the hood. I wiggle the wires going to the MAF (all secure), wiggle the wires going to the coil pack (all secure) and tap on the MAF. I get back in the car and it starts right up. Coincience??? It did throw a code but I have to pay someone to read it for me again.
The ECC is flashing the temp display for a few moments when you first start the car. The lights for the ride comtrol are both on at the same time. (I don't know when that started but noticed it after the water pump)
Did I do something when I changed the water pump? Is it just time for this car to have problems?
I rarely drive the car so I don't know what was already happening and what started after the pump replacement.
Sorry for the long post. I will come back and do some more searches and reading when I have more time. Sorry for the long post! Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated.
BTW- I am in Huntsville,AL if there is anybody here that could read codes or assist me.
Thanks,
Rob
I put a new waterpump on her car about a month ago. After that I started getting some check engine lights and the exaust smelled rich. I had the codes read and got a code for MAF. I replaced it and then I was getting a code for bank 1 lean so I put a new O2 sensor on it. Still running bad, erratic idle, rich mixure...etc. She took it to the dealer and they said it had a bad MAF. I got the MAF replaced by NAPA for no charge and it seems to run better but it cuts out at times. She said it seemed to cut out at 2000RPM. I drove it today and it felt like the torque converer was momentarily unlocking around 2000RPM. If you held it there it would drop out...back in...back out...back in. Now I'm thinking it could be the ign. cutting out momentarily also. I shut the car off, go in to the store for 10 minutes and when I return it doesn't want to start. Actually it cranked and the died immediatly. I did this about 4 or 5 times and then I get under the hood. I wiggle the wires going to the MAF (all secure), wiggle the wires going to the coil pack (all secure) and tap on the MAF. I get back in the car and it starts right up. Coincience??? It did throw a code but I have to pay someone to read it for me again.
The ECC is flashing the temp display for a few moments when you first start the car. The lights for the ride comtrol are both on at the same time. (I don't know when that started but noticed it after the water pump)
Did I do something when I changed the water pump? Is it just time for this car to have problems?
I rarely drive the car so I don't know what was already happening and what started after the pump replacement.
Sorry for the long post. I will come back and do some more searches and reading when I have more time. Sorry for the long post! Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated.
BTW- I am in Huntsville,AL if there is anybody here that could read codes or assist me.
Thanks,
Rob
#2
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Call around to your local auto parts stores and ask if they will rent out a scan tool. In my town, they rent them for free. You have to buy the tool with a credit card, then when you return it, they take the sale back off your card. If you stay in their parking lot, they will let you use the tool if you give them your driver'* license.
Some other parts stores will pull the codes for you for free in hopes of selling you some parts.
Re the running problems, these cars are notorious for ignition faults that feel just like transmission problems. Lots of times it is the simple stuff. If it was me, I would start with the codes, then the cheapest stuff, i.e., plugs and wires.
Great mechanical expertise on this site. Provide as much detail as possible to assist these guys in helping you.
Some other parts stores will pull the codes for you for free in hopes of selling you some parts.
Re the running problems, these cars are notorious for ignition faults that feel just like transmission problems. Lots of times it is the simple stuff. If it was me, I would start with the codes, then the cheapest stuff, i.e., plugs and wires.
Great mechanical expertise on this site. Provide as much detail as possible to assist these guys in helping you.
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Re: New Member in need of help
Originally Posted by movintons
The ECC is flashing the temp display for a few moments when you first start the car. The lights for the ride comtrol are both on at the same time. (I don't know when that started but noticed it after the water pump)
#4
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Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Call around to your local auto parts stores and ask if they will rent out a scan tool. In my town, they rent them for free. You have to buy the tool with a credit card, then when you return it, they take the sale back off your card. If you stay in their parking lot, they will let you use the tool if you give them your driver'* license.
Some other parts stores will pull the codes for you for free in hopes of selling you some parts.
Some other parts stores will pull the codes for you for free in hopes of selling you some parts.
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Re the running problems, these cars are notorious for ignition faults that feel just like transmission problems. Lots of times it is the simple stuff. If it was me, I would start with the codes, then the cheapest stuff, i.e., plugs and wires.
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Great mechanical expertise on this site. Provide as much detail as possible to assist these guys in helping you.
Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
the CC flashing means that there is a problem with the CC. You need to get the codes for the CC pulled from the dealer. AS for the ride buttons that means that there is a Problem with your CCR. Does the back of the car sag?? This is a function that is a cronic problem on the Bonnes. There are replacements available that only replace the ELC but not the CCR. there is a sticky on top of one of the forums for the ELC replacement
The car does not sag. This is a problem that I will tackle after the car is running right and blowing heat.
Is it possible that I pulled a ground loose somewhere while jacking the motor to change the water pump? It seems like a lot of things started immediatly after I changed it.
Thanks for your help!!!
Rob
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I read about self diagnostics of the climate control in the help section. Does this work on a 95 model or does the dealer have to scan it? Is it scanned through the same plug as as the PCM ?
The lights for the ride comtrol are both on at the same time. (I don't know when that started but noticed it after the water pump)
#6
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And more information on the struts at http://www.williamwren.com/struts/elc.html with a link at the bottom for disabling CCR since none of us can afford the replacement struts. Be advised that ELC and CCR are two independent systems, but you have both, and your struts are capable of both.
Replacement ELC struts are not ONLY air. They are gas struts with air assist.
Replacement ELC struts are not ONLY air. They are gas struts with air assist.
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