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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-18-2010, 04:07 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by enslow View Post
Please check your signal voltage for your MAF. It should be 0.6 V at idle. If you're getting 0.6 V, your MAF is probably ok and you will be wasting money on a new MAF.

I heard of one guy who had a MIL for a bad MAF. It turned out to be a bad computer, not the MAF.
OK so far the CRC MAF cleaner appears to be doing the trick. I noticed that it certainly cleans better vs the CRC electrical spray I also cleaned the old MAF which I believe is a Bosch made Maf here'* a hyperlink

this MAF appears identical to the old MAF which was originally in the car, after the CRC MAF cleaner i examined it with a really powerful magnifying class and one of the middle connector filament appears to be corroded (if you look at the ebay link and notice the little blue bulge in the middle of the filament that'* where the corrosion happened. This one looks to be dead in the water.

Now after researching this problem I ran into a range rover forum apparently they use Bosch for the MAF. guys over there said Bosch doesn't work out so well with the MAF cleaner not that it can't work but imho it'* the filament erosion that kills Bosch Mafs.

Okay so i'm going to run the car around for a while and if the light pops on or stalls i'll check to make sure it'* 0.6V

sorry for the long post I just wanted to give people a heads up on Bosch MAF'* and that they should research in depth before attempting to clean one or buying a new one.

BTW I used quite a bit of the cleaner probably 20 squirts each side and a little less on old BAD MAF so now i'm down to 1/3 of the can left

Last edited by freeloadr; 04-18-2010 at 04:15 PM.
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