Originally Posted by 98SSE
If you could tell me how to get to the actautor and the programmer without pulling the dash that would be awesome. How much does a programer cost from the junkyard?
I don't think too many people would know what the heck it is when you plop it down in the parts counter. Offer $20 for the "neat black box to tinker with".
Here'* a behind the scene look at the dash:
This will kinda allow you to get the feel for what'* going on back there. Although the actuator and rod were camera shy, you can get a good sense of where they belong. One quick note, the two 7mm screws on the heater core cover were smaller in my 97 so I assume they are smaller on your car too.
The idea is to remove some components to the right of the heater core cover to remove it. This includes the HVAC programmer. You will easily see the large electrical connector that plugs into the programmer but what you won't see is a smaller connector that goes from the programmer to the actuator. It plugs in from the top so you will have to feel for it to disconnect. Once you have enough room to remove the heater core cover, you can reach up and disconnect the rod and the whole assembly will come out. Remove the old actuator from the cover and reinstall the new one. Reverse precedures for reinstallation for other components.
Attaching and calibrating the rod can be difficult but you usually set the ECC temp setting to full hot, move the air mix door lever all the way to the right (like the first pic) and connect the rod in the middle of the threads. You might have to readjust but this usually work the first time. Don't forget to reconnect the small programmer to actuator connector.
If you have forearms like Popeye, expect some minor cuts, scratches and pokes. It is tight but think of all the time and agony you'll be saving.