I can see all the bolts for the splash gaurd under the engine, but is that it or are there some more hiddin near the radiator from above?

Is it correct that once I get that off I need to unbolt the lower spacer on the motor mount so I slide the belt down through? Do I need to brace the engine?

Also, what is a recommened location to jack up the front end of my car'* year/model?

You'll have to take all 4 bolts ( or at least I did ) that holds the mount.. remove the rubber mount bolt ( that screws onto the rubber piece ) and drop the power steering pump cause one of the bolts that holds the mount to the block is behind that pulley and can't find any way ( @ that time ) to loosen that screw.. you'll have to remove the top bolt thats closest to you in the front of the mount on the motor and loosen the bottom to make the gap big enough to fit the belt thru. I used 2x6 between the oil pan and tranny pan held up by a jack to distribute the weight to as great of an area as possible.. ( unless you happen to have a cherry picker.. which most of us don't )

You only need to remove the lower engine mount bolt and spacer to change the SC belt. You do not need to remove the splash guard either.

Just jack up the passenger side of the car by placing your jack under the subframe. Once raised, insert a jack stand, lower the car onto it and remove the jack. Now place the jack under the engine oil pan, use a 2" x 4" against the pan and position it as close to the front of the engine as possible. Jack up the engine only enough to take some of the engine weight on the jack.

Turn the steering all the way to the right, remove the 2 push clips that hold the plastic slpash guard in the wheel well to the body, and the 1 that holds the guard to the rubber guard. Remove the nut, stud and spacer from the lower hole of the engine mount.

Use a 15 mm wrench or socket to slacken the tensioner and then remove the belt, taking note of the orientation around the pulleys. When looking through the wheel well you'll see how the belt must be slid of the the crankshaft pulley and behind the engine mount.

Reassemble in reverse order paying attention to line up the belt properly on the crankshaft pulley and all the other tensioner and idler pulleys.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Geez that sux, I can change the belts on my 92 in about 3 minutes.

Aw screw it, that bolt was on there really tight...even after lifting the engine for some support. I have an idea for tomarrow (a friend with an air ratchet).