In order to replace the air mix door, you either need a lot of money, or a lot of time. If you have neither, then do what I did. I had the exact same problem last year this time. I couldn't get the part out, so I just moved it a few times back and forth. That did solve the problem - I started getting heat, and the climate control stopped flashing.

It'* worth a try - it is better than freezing in the winter.

The air mix valve is what controls the amount of heat that is delivered - provided your heater core is not clogged or your thermostat bad.

On the 95 SSEi you can check to see if the air mix valve operates properly by removing the glove box, probably visible for all models.

The air mix damper door lever can be seen behind the air bag bracket. Shine a flashlight in towards left side you will see a metal rod. Turn the temperature all the way up, wait a few seconds and you will see the rod move the damper door lever to the right towards the passenger door. Turn temperature all the way down it will move towards the drivers side. (if the metal rod is pop out of the lever put back in but first have temperature on 90 degrees or high and make sure damper door lever is all the way to right)

If no movement in metal rod either the actuator is bad or the controller box. Note: If your heater core was changed the wires in the controller box could of been pulled out of the pc board. It is hard to get to the connector plugged into the air mix valve when changing the heater core. Check to see if the connector inside controller box was pulled from pc board, if it was just reconnect.

What do you mean move it back in forth?

Now the code says the air mix moter is either open, shorted, or not calibrated. What does is mean if it' open? or not calibrated?

Also now when I turn my car on the temp does not flash anymore on the climate control. It used to flash but now it doesn't.

Open or shorted refer to the circut from the HVAC programmer to the actuator. Open would be a wire that is cut, shorted would be a direct connection to ground and not calibrated means that adjustment is necessary. IE the air mix door is fully closed or open but the actuator is not at the end of it'* limit.

I found this too and thought my problem fixed itself. It only statred flashing again when I changed the temp setting either warmer or cooler.

If you are getting a code for:
"Open" - check the conecttor inside the HVAC controller box. The wires that come out of the controller which then plug into the air mix motor are very short and are hard to reach when servicing the heater core. I pulled mine out by accident when changing the core-had to just reseat the connector and problem was fixed.

"Not Calibrated" - calibrate by setting temperature to the highest level
Remove glove box interior - look behind airbag bracket for air mix motor and air mix door lever connected by short metal rod.
Pop the rod out of air mix door lever which is a plastic retainer with a long screwdriver
Move air mix door lever towards passenger door - full right - which is max heat position
then pop rod back in retainer ( may need two long screwdrivers one to force down on rod and one under door lever.


As far as fixing the door - don't see how it can go bad it is only flat piece of plastic with has a lever to move, unless you break off the lever there should be no problem.

As for needing to remove center console and dropping dash to repair - Not necessary.
I have 95 SSEi and just did the core - forget the GM manual for help. It is tight to change the heater core but only need to remove HVAC controller, Air Mix Motor and Cover for core and two hose clamps from engine compartment side. Pull rug and padding back for some clearance.

PS if you just need a quick fix for heat and can ignore flashing display just pop out the glove box and pop out the rod to air mix door. Push the door towards passenger door side and as long as heater core is not clogged you will have heat.

Hope this helps.

When I first read this today, I thought this was more work than pulling the dash. But, after spending some time with the parts car, I think you are on to something. As mentioned in another post, I have a crack in my heater "box". I wanted to see if I could replace it with something from the parts car. I found the part that I needed was secured only by two 7mm screws. Wouldn't you know it... it is the same part that the air mix actuator mounts to. The only problem I see is how is the rod from the actuator to the door disconnects to enable this part to come off? And how is the actuator and rod adjusted after installation?



With part removed:

I might have to try that. As long as I have heat that'* all that matters to me. I don't feel like dropping hundred of dollars on getting heat. Thanks for the advice.

randman1

I wish I had saw your dash before i started replacing my heater core. It is a good reference for anyone looking to attemp the replacement. I was working almost blind for most of the job except for a narrow opening thru the glove box area. Your picture would of save me some time. The only thing missing from your picture is the HVAC controller box (it has the vacuum lines & 1 electrical connector on the bottom and the one short electrical connector on top I was referring to as easily being yanked out.) and the air mix actuator motor (air mix motor) which you show its location in the circle.

The heater core cover box is what the actuator motor is actually mounted to. The only reason I tell you have to remove the actuator motor in the core changeout is stricly for clearance to get the cover box out. The cover box does need a little coaxing when you attemp the removal and reinstallation that is also why you pull back the rug and padding. If your careful you will not crack the cover box just takes a little patience and slight bending of cover. The cover is rigid so if you place too much pressure bending it you will crack it.

PS the crack I was referring to was on the engine compartment side above the exhaust pipe coming off the manifold. GM put a small metal heat shield directly over the pipe area on the box but just beyond that plate my box has cracked. I just cover it with foil tape.

If you are going to change the cover you are going to have remove the HVAC controller box and actuator motor. You might want to splice in wires to top connector on controller box or add a jumper to make it easier to reconnect. On reinstallation it is possible to reconnect the connector - you need to install the actuator motor on top of the heater core cover box. Then without mounting the HVAC controller hold the connector in the position it plugs into the actuator motor. Try to look through glove box opening to help see the connector being plugged in. You are almost doing it by feel and just getting a small glimpse so you know your in the area. If you get frustrated splice in long wires and preconnect to actuator before installing. Test that you didn't yank out the wire from controller before proceeding further by turning heat up & down - watch the actuator motor move it doesn't move right away takes about 5 seconds.

Then for the actuator motor rod adjustment:
Remove glove box interior - look behind airbag bracket for actuator (air mix motor) and air mix door lever (the white plasic lever in your picture to the left of the actuator your red circle) which is connected by short metal rod.

The rod can be pop out of air mix door lever with a long screwdriver. Just pry under the metal rod as close to the air mix door lever as possible - it is a plastic retainer so the rod just pops out. It looks like you would break the retainer because the rod has actually threaded ends. This mehod is the one piece of instruction the GM manual was good for. It is the under the calibration procedure for setting up the adjustment of actuator motor ( by the way which is flat - doesn't look like a motor, it has some type of worm gear inside because to move it must be powered up.)

Move air mix door lever (white lever in your picture) towards passenger door - full right - which is max heat position
Then pop rod back in retainer ( may need two long screwdrivers one to force down on rod and one under door lever to hold it in place so the rod can snap in place)

When you read GM or any car manuals you must consider that some items can actually be change with half the steps. The manufactor deals in complete assemblies. I almost discharged my AC system following the manual. I was sure glad afterwards that I was patient. That is why your picture gives detail the manual doesn't provide.

Good Luck