ICM failures are common enough...they ARE electronic, afterall. You will be happy to know that you can use any S1 or S2 ICM as they function exactly the same, and even share the same keying for the connector (the only difference was the addition of a ground to pin K on the later models...inconsequential when using on an earlier engine).

I wouldn't, however, discount the ICM harness itself or the cam sensor (magnets have been known to fly off of the cam gear...so the sensor itself is fine, but can't find TDC because it doesn't see the cam magnet every revolution). You can check to see if it came off w/o having to pop off the timing cover...just take out the cam sensor and shine a light through that hole, and rotate the crank by hand until you either see a magnet...or a hole for said magnet. However, that does not explain the code 42.

With both codes present, I suspect the ICM may be bad.

Oh, and you do have a knock sensor.....supercharged engines have them in that location you mentioned. N/As have them...up front, near where the a/c bracket is, right under the cylinder head.

I'm still digging. I ran all the way through the code 42 troubleshooting chart all the way to "idle it for 2 min. Does it code 42?" Answer was no.

As always, I have to blip the throttle pretty sudden, as if you were challenging somebody to some "stop lite 500," to get it to code.
However, if I rev it gradually, like taking a 1-2 count up to about 4000 it is smooth and (on a cleared out code condition) won't code ... not until I "blip" it.

Code 18 won't code until I drive it. I might try gassing it with it in gear and brake on.

Anyway, I will see if I can find the cam magnet and will also try ohming out the sensor wiring and more.
Thanks
Bill the Blipper

No change in problem.
-But right now it is not dying during my 2 mile test run.
-If I go easy, I can get up to about 50, runs smooth, no codes
-If I stab the gas, immediately goes to running rough with open throttle. Cannot get a smooth cruise again, until I reset the codes.

As mentioned, it passed the code 42 troubleshooting chart, since it is geared for coding at IDLE.
NOTE: This basically checks out ckt 423 & 424

Went to the code 18 circuit looking for anything I might have missed.

A checklist:
1. Cam Magnet in place
2. Ground at cam sensor connector pin B
3. Ground at crank sensor connector pin C
4. 11 V at cam sensor connector pin C
5. 11 V at crank sensor connector pin D
6. 5 V at cam sensor connector pin A
7. PCM connector (unplugged)
>BA6 & BB6 (PCM Ground) Grounded
>BC8 (wire 453) Grounded
>Key "ON"
>BA12 (wire 630) 5v
>BC11 (wire 430) 5v

On that Knock Sensor, nothing on the front of the block except what I think is a water temp sensor, between the starter and AC compressor. Nothing above the compressor.

Maybe this thing is a (Dodge?) Demon. It is certainly possessed

My bad. It'* behind the compressor, not above it.





Note that this is the output of the sensor that goes to the cam input at the PCM, which varies in voltage. At this point, I would swap out the ICM plate as it looks like all your external connections are good.

I found a pull-a-part yard that is open on Sunday; so getting ready for a trip.
:?:
Q1: Anybody know the year spread, etc., of Ign Ctrl Modules (ICM) that are compatible with my 93 SSE?

Q2: Same question for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)?

I guess I will have to swap the PROM out though, right?

thanks
Busted Flat in Billville

Ok...pretty sure a 1992-1993 PCM will work, and yes you will need to swap out the memcal, but I highly doubt that is your issue.

As far as ICMs go, any 3.8 liter with the delco coil packs (not the magnavox monobrick style coilpack) will do you well.

I'd also pick up the wiring harness for ICM & crank/cam sensors.

Electricity is like magic to me, i.e., not well understood, but let me offer the following advice. When checking voltage at a point, check that the circuit can also carry a current load by using a test light with a decent watt rating like a tail-light bulb. I had a bad ignition switch that allowed 12v to read on the multimeter on the ignition line, but whose connection was so bad that it would not light a test lamp. Cost me a bunch of extra hours trying to find the real problem.

I don't got no stinkin codes!

Yup, as you said, it turned out that is WAS a bad ICM!
I think that was the first thing I tried, but the Autozone ICM was bad. Might have been somebody returned a bad one.

The one from U-Pull-It (only $15) was the nastiest, ugliest looking thing. But it was the only one I could find. I think they are the first things to go. But I cleaned it up and put a hole in it for grounding; and that did it!

Weird thing is that it still sort of cuts out, missing maybe, when you gas it hard. I thought the two things were linked. I picked up a PCM for $37 out of a 92 and it worked after changing the pop-out chip. But didn't fix the cut out/sputtering, so the original PCM is back in.

BTW, for the record, both PCMs had the same "SERV. NO." The 4 letters in the upper right of the PCM sticker indicate the chip that is installed.

I guess I'll go through the manual and check/see what I can find for the crappy spot. It has recently installed plugs and cables; O2 probably has about 3K-4K miles. But I'll start another post for it when the time comes.

Thanks guys for all the help. I really appreciate it.
I'll be bach[/b]

Can you believe this? After the car had set, I backed it up 20 ft to demonstrate the dead spot to the wife. When I stabbed the gas that time, it had a really big dead spot, and threw a code 42 again!

Pulled it back up, cleared the code and stabbed it again and the spot was not as bad and it didn't code.

A friend of a friend, who has a GM background suggested removing every ground I can find and polishing/sanding them. So, since the cold front is coming through, I guess I will try that tomorrow evening after work.

To be continued...