Doing air mix actuator replacement, need help.
#1
Senior Member
Posts like a Camaro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Chi-Town
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Doing air mix actuator replacement, need help.
I have begun the arduous task of replacing the air mix actuator on the 96, and already I have run into some problems. First off, how the hell do I disconnect the red clip holding the wire buss from the programmer? Also, I removed the 7mm nut holding that nipple thing onto the programmer, how do I get that off as well? More questions to come as I run into them (god this is going to be a long night). Thanks and appreciation for the help.
Here'* looking at that programmer straight on:
http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00939.JPG
Here'* looking at that programmer straight on:
http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00939.JPG
#3
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Join Date: May 2005
Location: _Phoenix, AZ_ _WCBF '05, '06, '07 Survivor_ ____NEBF '07 Remnant___
Posts: 3,448
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Originally Posted by Boreas
OK! I got the red connector off, but the vacuum nipples wont come out.
1. Remove the connector as a unit. It slides onto the front (which you have removed) and the back of the programmer case, like on tracks. There might be a tab on the back bottom corner, I can't recall exactly. Try sliding the whole connector up and wiggle at the same time and it should pop free. Then let it hang there by the vacuum lines during the actuator swap.
2. Cut the vacuum lines on BOTH sides of the connector (making sure you note which color line on both sides lines up with the color lines on the other side, and replace the connector (like splicing the lines back together) with new vacuum lines just larger than the colored lines. I had to go to NAPA with the connector and matched the tubing up with some new line. What you are doing is replacing the connector with vacuum tubing. The connector is no longer needed.
#4
Senior Member
Posts like a Camaro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Chi-Town
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, the heater core cover is loose, but it wont come off. Ive tried taking the screws off on the actuator blind but theres no room for my hand and rachet, and I have to be double jointed to do the whole thing anyway because in place of the ECM like in the old cars there is an annoying plastic bracket and a bundle of wires where it once was. Only way to remove it is to remove the dash.
On top of that, despite pulling back the carpet and pad, I still cant drop the heater core cover low enough to remove it. Ive turned in for the night and im going to give this a final shot tomorrow. I really dont know how some of you people were able to pull this off and would appreciate the advice as im considering taking the dash completely out or just live with the "redneck" fix. My dad who'* pretty good with such puzzles is stuck on how to remove this as well. He wants to remove the bracket behind the glove box, he thinks he can get the screws from behind.
http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00940.JPG
http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00941.JPG
http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00942.JPG
http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00945.JPG
On top of that, despite pulling back the carpet and pad, I still cant drop the heater core cover low enough to remove it. Ive turned in for the night and im going to give this a final shot tomorrow. I really dont know how some of you people were able to pull this off and would appreciate the advice as im considering taking the dash completely out or just live with the "redneck" fix. My dad who'* pretty good with such puzzles is stuck on how to remove this as well. He wants to remove the bracket behind the glove box, he thinks he can get the screws from behind.
http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00940.JPG
http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00941.JPG
http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00942.JPG
http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00945.JPG
#5
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: West Point, Utah - Village Idiot
Posts: 1,606
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
This might help:
http://www.trialsnuts.com/ecc.pdf
Dude, don't remove the dash. The heater core cover WILL come out from under the dash with a fair amount of yanking. You'll have even more fun getting it back in. I suggest you pull it down as far as you can without pullling it out and try to access the screws securing the air mix actuator - that may be a pita, but it'* much less a pita than pulling the heater core cover out from under the dash. Trust me on this!
And the vacuum bulkhead connector at the programmer CAN be disconnected. Details are in the above link.
http://www.trialsnuts.com/ecc.pdf
Dude, don't remove the dash. The heater core cover WILL come out from under the dash with a fair amount of yanking. You'll have even more fun getting it back in. I suggest you pull it down as far as you can without pullling it out and try to access the screws securing the air mix actuator - that may be a pita, but it'* much less a pita than pulling the heater core cover out from under the dash. Trust me on this!
And the vacuum bulkhead connector at the programmer CAN be disconnected. Details are in the above link.
#6
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
I used a cut down ratchet and also found that Sears sells finger/thumb screw type drive.
One of these
With bit for 5.5mm is all you need. It gives you the workability w/o committing suicide. Then make sure you don't just connect the rod... you need to run the system through it'* setup and then connect the rod properly..
Oh..Bob...what'* that procedure?
One of these
With bit for 5.5mm is all you need. It gives you the workability w/o committing suicide. Then make sure you don't just connect the rod... you need to run the system through it'* setup and then connect the rod properly..
Oh..Bob...what'* that procedure?
#7
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Join Date: May 2005
Location: _Phoenix, AZ_ _WCBF '05, '06, '07 Survivor_ ____NEBF '07 Remnant___
Posts: 3,448
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Then make sure you don't just connect the rod... you need to run the system through it'* setup and then connect the rod properly..
Oh..Bob...what'* that procedure?
Oh..Bob...what'* that procedure?
#8
Senior Member
Posts like a Camaro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Chi-Town
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Its done. I had alot of help from my dad. And having the right tools definately helps and is practically mandatory for this task. I probably would have been done with this sooner if I had the right stuff since it took a couple of trips to Sears.
Here'* the culprit:
http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00952.JPG
There should be a techinfo article on this because when warmer weather comes we are going to be repeating the cycle with the same posts, and I would like to contribute.
Here'* the culprit:
http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00952.JPG
There should be a techinfo article on this because when warmer weather comes we are going to be repeating the cycle with the same posts, and I would like to contribute.
#9
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Join Date: May 2005
Location: _Phoenix, AZ_ _WCBF '05, '06, '07 Survivor_ ____NEBF '07 Remnant___
Posts: 3,448
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Yup. That gear is split and the cause of all of your troubles (at least the ones related to the ECC). Glad to hear you have it done. We are working on developing a list of common issues that will include this item and the procedure to repair.
Glad you got it replaced.
Glad you got it replaced.