Of the AC. The one closest to the strut of the one closest to the radiator?

I'm pretty sure it'* the one closest to the strut, but thought I'd better ask to make sure. I bought a stupid Chilton'* manual, I forgot how much I hate them. Haynes is better IMO, at least it would've probably shown me a picture or described it. Sheesh.

Yeah, that'* what it said. True, it can be dangerous, but what isn't? :

I thought the low side was by the strut...thanks for confirming it.

Low side is on the accumulator by the firewall. I wouldn't recommend working on it unless you have a good set of pressure gauges and know a few things about A/C.

If all it needs is a small amount of R-134a, a good A/C shop is the best bet, and it won't cost you much.

Although, when you bring it into an AC shop, as a mechanic myself (with AC as well), I cannot top up a system. The reason that the system is low is because of a leak (it is a closed system). I always tell customers that if you have a problem with your AC it will cost you a minimum of about $500. I can't remember many jobs costing less than that. Man, my compressor and my evaporator has leaked the freon out of it and I can't afford to replace them yet. Ugh!!!! Gotta love AC but you gotta hate it too!!!!

I already charged it up. True it'* a "closed" system, but so are lots of other things that eventually need replenishing even without a leak. Things just work that way sometimes. Although, I agree about the leak testing, more often than not, one will exist.

Really the only problem with my AC system is that it continually cycles. It blows cold, just cycles all of the time, I dunno know why. As far as the rest goes, I have pressure gauges and have work on high pressure systems before, just not AC in particular. But hey, I've never let lack of experience stop me from doing anything before. Heck, I'd still be a 30 year old virgin if that were the case.

A system that cycles often is usually low on freon. That is the biggest indicator. There is a very large learning curve (definitely not impossible) in learing AC trouble shooting with pressure gauges. If you are serious about his you will need an AC book. You don't need a vehicle specific book because all AC works the same way (high side and low side). If you could hook up your gauges and give me a reading of the high and low side as well as the ambient temperature and humidity I may be able to give you a hand, although it may still be difficult.

The Bonneville system is a cycling system... It'* designed that way...

Slight leaks (around 12oz every three or so years) are not worth tracking down, and may be impossible to track down. Although I still feel the best way to charge a car is by total freon weight, topping off with pressure readings makes much more sense in some cases. That'* also a good time to stick some UV dye in there.

Yes, if there is a faster leak, it should be repaired first. Also remember R-12 is much worse for the ozone layer than R-134a.