Just wondering if anyone knows a way to have low beams stay on when I flick on my highs. I got HIDs for my low beam and they were spanking my(stock 65watt) high beams a**! Put in SilverStars for highs and they help a LOT, but Highs with Lows on LIGHTS the road and I can spot all those pesky deer before they decide to cross the road. Any input?

I've had the same thought. More than once. Even with the Silver Stars I'm running. What year and model do you have? Put it in your sig so we know what schematic to start digging through. You just sparked me to start working on this again. Just gotta find the relay, and see how it'* wired

But it depends on your year......have I mentioned that already?

Birds of a feather flock together.....

I was just looking at my schematic again. I have a 93. The other thing I'd do if I couldn't run hi and lo beams together, is have the driving lights stay on with the high beams. These new ones are as good or better than my lo beams. HOWEVER.....what if I could have ALL 6 lights stay on when the brights are selected? Guess what? NO RELAY. It'* straight switched from the column. Now we can't just jumper a parallel line, or the Highs would stay on with the lows selected....BUT, we CAN use just a single high-wattage diode. No kidding. I think a single diode will do it. May have to boost the rating of the fuse, and there'* a fusible link I need to check on, too, but I think this can be done for about a dollar. At least on a 93.

My, I'm all for the idea of all six lights on! Let me know if anyone gets it working, and can walk me through it..Shoot, that would look awesome, especially with blue lights!

Oh, and, Will..Could you look through the schematics on my car? '99 SLE.

I got a 98 SLE.

Werkin on it!

I would like to do this on my car also

I understand how your diode would work, but your high beam circuit would be drawing power for four headlamps instead of two; I'd wonder about overloading some portion of the circuit.

Actually all you really need is a 5-pin automotive relay, available at places like Radio Shack. Current to the high beams would be used to close the relay, which would then light the low beams alongside. The power to actually _light_ the low beams can come from a separate power source, so that you're not doubling the load on the high-beam wiring.

The reason for a 5-pin relay instead of a 4-pin is that when the low beams (only) are in use, power to the low beams would pass through the same relay. The 5th contact, the one in the center of the group, is the normally-closed one, allowing a path through the relay to the output while it is off. When it'* on (e.g. when you switch on your high beams), the relay interrupts the normally-closed circuit, and switches to its other input lead instead. Thus your high beams can switch on your low beams, but your low beams cannot switch on your high beams.

Clear as mud? I thought so!

Anyhow, J.C. Whitney/Warshawsky sells a little kit that does exactly this. Ransack their website and you should be able to find it.

Never mind; this is it: http://www.jcwhitney.com/productnoit...D=5135&BQ=jcw2

Actually it is possible using a 4-pin relay after all; a 5-pin is not needed. Radio Shack will sell you that same relay for $5, too; I don't think J.C. Whitney needs to get $19.99 from you + shipping just so you can get extra printed directions about it.