If the vacuum checks out OK, and you suspect the problem is electrical, you can do some free electrical stuff to see what happens. Lots of problems can be caused by loose, dirty, or corroded electrical connections. You can start with the battery cables - both ends. And the ground connections, multi-pin connector and baseplate connections for the Ignition Control Module and Coil Pack(*). Sometimes just unplugging a connector and replugging it a couple of times is enough to remove an insulating coating of oxidation. Once you clean up a connection, prevent future oxidation by applying a coating of dielectric grease.

There is a ground bus up under the carpeting on the driver'* side of the car in front of the driver'* seat that can cause a host of electrical problems if the car develops a leak and allows water to saturate the wiring. You might want to check to make sure it is clean and tight. There are some good pix of this here somewhere.....

The link between the brakes and the stall tendency is a little puzzling. As well as the vacuum relationship mentioned earlier, there are a couple of electrical switches on the brake pedal. I suppose there could be a problem there or at the PCM that uses the information for control of the transmission and engine.

I hope a smarter mechanic can chime in here to help out.

If anybody is still watching this thread.............
I've all but ruled out Vacuum leak or brake booster troubles.
All I really know at this point is that I have an intermittent electrical problem that causes very brief loss of power that may or may not cause the motor to die.
The only consistency I can suggest is this seems to happen at low rpm/speed and is possibly related to the use of electronic accessories. :?
Thanks to everyone who posted.

Does your car crank over slow when you're starting it?

Yes. I have noticed "slow" starts.
I'm now considering getting scanned. What do I need to know in order to get this done?
Is 95 SE OBD 1? Please tell me I don't have to go to the .......da..~...da...~...da.......DEALER!

No you don't have to go to the stealership. Yes I mis spelled that because that'* what they are lol

From the sounds of it you have a weak electrical component, prolly a battery or alt....maybe even both.

I've had something kinda similar to this...minus the brake part....kinda

Pull your battery cable off the battery, then peel back the rubber surrounds on the connecters and clean the corrosion off of them. When you hit the brakes it maybe just enough that when you're brake lights light up (Five bulbs I think?) it'* putting a shock draw on your electrical system that the possible corrosion on your cables can't pass through.

Or another possibiliy is that maybe something with your brake light circut is causing a power surge when the switch is activated. Try driving, and applying just enough brake to activate the switch and see if it happens. Don't come to a stop.

Those are my thoughts at the moment.

OK, so I'm driving home tonight and I here this "click-click" from the passenger side dash area. I heard this maybe ten times in thirty minutes. Two of the times, at the same time as the "click-click" my cd player cuts off and I get the infamous "ding-ding-ding". That'* all that happened and it was over. This happened twice in thiry minutes.
So, what'* the "click-click" and is it related to my problem :?:
If it is related......is it a symptom or the problem?

Did your turn signal happen to be on, and was the sound coming from your stereo speakers? In my limited experience this sounds like a near-dead alternator.... have the alt and battery tested at a battery shop or other garage. I think one or the other is about to leave you stranded somewhere. Your car will die if the alternator craps out and then the battery runs down.

No and No. I had the speakers off so I could hear the "click". When I said the cd player cut off I meant the display but I have had the speakers cut off too.

I'm still thinking bad alternator or dying battery.

Have both components load tested in the morning if you can.