Ditto for me also.
At the time of replacing my UIM I had no idea there was a design change on the
EGR pipe. I still don't.
Your saying if you take apart an 05 the pipe won't be touching the UIM?
If this is so does anyone have the dealer part #?
Next time I'm in there I'll change it.
Hey Vital did you re use your old pipe or does the dealer have a re-design.
As far as aftermarket I'd rather get on a lathe and make my own.

I just got my UIM back from the machine shop Thursday evening. I had the plastic hole for EGR transport in the manifold drilled out to 7/8". It cost me $30, which I thought was outrageous but I wanted it done in a hurry, and I couldn't find a 7/8" twist drill in any of the local hardware stores. I'm sure anyone with a drill press could CAREFULLY drill out the manifold straight and true. There was one very small area that hit water, but the sleeve and epoxy will of course solve that problem.

The reason I had the manifold machined is that I've obtained some 7/8" OD stainless tubing to sleeve the intake. I will do this to the correct length a little later today and post some pictures of the process. The tubing is .050 wall, which means the ID is .775. This leaves a small air gap between the EGR pipe and the sleeve. I will epoxy in the sleeve in the UIM later today and post pix of the process

Although I'm of the opinion that sleeving the manifold alone will cure the problem (and let me point out, it will repair ruined manifoldsfor cheap), If I can obtain the alleged new EGR stainless part with the .625 (versus .750) OD, I will use that.

If any of you guys want to sleeve old manifolds, send me a PM with your address and I'll mail a sleeve to you for $5 including postage. Keep in mind that my sleeve is just a length of old scrap 7/8" OD stainless 304tubing that'* not beautifully machined, but cut to length with a cutoff saw and ground flat and deburred on each end.

However, when you see my pix later, I think you'll agree it will work.

Hello again. To SSEBONNE4EVA, from what I have learned so far, it looks like all of the later years will have the .625" EGR tube in the LIM. In fact, my GOOD (finally) GM dealer parts guy researched it on his computer, and here are the numbers: 24502743, changed to 24505728, and that then changed to 24508923. So, there is the progression, and he appoligized for not being able to tell at what years, or serial numbers, the changes were made. (-and from my experiences, part number changes are not always totally clean and sharply defined anyway, sometimes with a lot of overlap either way)

Anyway, 24508923 is the latest number. I didn't price the part, but I'd bet it would be pretty spendy. Also, to answer the question some have had about buying just the EGR tube by itself. GM definitely does not show that part as possible to purchase separately. Which quite frankly, I don't find the least bit surprising, I mean afterall, do you really think that the average dealership line mechanic is likely to be able (much less have the tools) to extract the factory pressed-in tube, and correct press fit a new one?

Say, Bob, GOOD JOB on your UIM modifications Honestly, I think you have just come up with a most EXCELLENT solution And the obvious beauty of using your method is that it makes absolutely no difference what size the LIM tube is, PLUS the added BONUS is that you don't have to go through the hassle of replacing the EGR tube. True, the hole cost you $30, but hey I think that is a bargain. In my mind, from a "basic machine process" point of view, it would be FAR SAFER to enlarge that hole using a "reamer" (not a tapered reamer, obviously, but a "parallel" type), but not a twist drill. A twist drill, even in a drill press setup, can sometimes "grab a whole big hunk of material" and make a total mess out of the part. ESPECIALLY when it is most likely that you will be breaking out into a coolant passage. But then again, you are talking about a tool that is pretty expensive, and certainly not available at your local hardware store. -guess I'll just take my chances with a twist drill.

Anyway, just my comments. GOOD JOB EVERYONE !!
(gee, if GM only had such a good source of information, advice, solutions, etc.,,,, -or maybe they do, but just don't listen very often??)

Say Bob, if you don't mind, I will adopt your method on my next job. (-in fact I still have my old UIM from my '99, which I might just as well go ahead and modify right now.) I can have it all done and ready to use on my brother'* '98 LaSabre. :?

The GM part# 24508923 lower manifold is $167 from GMpartsdirect.com

I just drew up a blueprint for my machinist buddy for a reduced-diameter EGR transport tube. I'm gonna use carbon steel for the part. I think stainless, with the airgap I'm gonna use, would be overkill.

My '72 Grandville has steel tube headers (.035 wall) on it and they take the direct forces of exhaust gas right out of the port and haven't burnt through. I think carbon steel will be OK.

I've been watching this thread with great interest since I'm getting ready to tear into my '98 SE. I ordered the Dorman UIM from Northern Auto Parts for $118.98 delivered. I also ordered the #24508923 LIM from gmpartsdirect and the delivered cost for that was $199.68. I'll get the LIM gaskets locally. I seriously considered ordering the #17113136 upper from gmpartsdirect since GM'* TSB recommends replacing both items with those part numbers. But since the Dorman was available at such a good price I went that route.

I bought this car new. Just before the warranty expired I was losing coolant to places unknown until it hydrolocked in my driveway. The dealer towed it in and replaced the UIM, flushed the engine and replaced the spark plugs. All was well until the past month. The car now has 73,000 miles and is losing coolant again. I know it is going out the exhaust so it'* time to fix it right. I'll report back with the results of using the Dorman with the newer GM LIM.

A little elbow grease and a vice grip you should be able to pull the lower pipe out?
so the new one is .625 dia.?
My original rochester had 73k on it with only slight burn marks on the EGR passage
and this Delphi is higher heat resistant.
I guess I won't worry for now.
Wish I knew when I had it apart though.
In all honesty it was the lower gaskets that were toast and I'm glad I did it for that reason
alone! Maybe the class action or recall will go through.
I guess it would have been too easy for GM to re-design a new UIM with a larger EGR
port hole so that the older models would have a fix.
I guess they wouldn't sell lowers then.

It is a pretty thin tube. If you want to save it, I think you will want to slip the closest-fitting deep socket you can manage down inside the pipe before you grab onto it, the way Harry did. That way, you won't crush the thing if it is into the LIM really tight. Mine just twisted right out, pretty easily.

I think Harry said the new pipe is .625 = 5/8" O.D.

I thought mine (at 127K) just had slight burn marks too, until I went to scrape on them a little with a penknife. The plastic in just a few places seemed to have crystallized, the more I scraped, the more it crumbled. I reamed mine out to .829 and there was still one tiny little spot of deteriorated plastic. It is now covered with a sleeve, though, so it should be OK.

BTW, my lower manifold gasket (GM blue) was in good shape when I did mine. Replaced with the orange Felpro, though.

SSEBONNE4EVA, do you know whether they are marketing the new Delphi as more resistant to heat because of a different plastic formulation or are they referring to the heavier support for the coolant passages?

OK, it'* done! I just epoxied the sleeve into place with JB weld, and as soon as my better half downloads the pix from her digital camera, I'll post them.

I made the sleeve 1.5" instead of the measured .800 one previously mentioned. It sticks up into the airstream about .750. My idea for this was to use intake air to cool the sleeve. I was initially worried about harming airflow, but when I examined the manifold, noted that there is a splitter for air flow to the front and rear cylinders right behind the EGR outlet, so I don't think I'm harming flow much, if at all.

This should allow the sleeve to run cooler. At .050 wall stainless, I doubt that heat transport to the plastic of the UIM is significant, but in an abundance of caution, I lengthened the tube/

This rebuild cost a grand total of $33 ($3 for a foot of stainless tubing and $30 to get the manifold machined) plus some JB weld I had in my toolbox. I'll get some gaskets and use my own '99 Bonneville as a test mule, but I must say, I think it will work.

If it does, we'll all be jake. I ordered a set of reamers so I don't have to pay the machinist from now on. It seems many here have this problem and would like a reasonable solution. If mine works, I think we have one.

I wonder how many ruined uppers are stored under various workbenches?

Did you order the reamers from HarborFreight?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38577

I was looking at those.