John's Shave-O-Matic replacement
03-23-2007, 11:58 AM
#43
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I'd say reman would be the way to go...
I believe that you are slowly eating the bottom end...
Its extremely seldom that you will ever see a 3800 eat a cam or a lifter for that matter...
If we were talking about the Conventional Lifter set up then we'd have a different story..
How low does the oil pressure get? And what does it start out at on a cool morning, and how low does it get when its at Operating temps for a bit
John do you have the time or want to put the effort into a rebuild?
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I believe that you are slowly eating the bottom end...
Its extremely seldom that you will ever see a 3800 eat a cam or a lifter for that matter...
If we were talking about the Conventional Lifter set up then we'd have a different story..
How low does the oil pressure get? And what does it start out at on a cool morning, and how low does it get when its at Operating temps for a bit
John do you have the time or want to put the effort into a rebuild?
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03-23-2007, 12:01 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by J Wikoff
If I'm doing an engine swap, it'* gonna be rebuilt or new. I want the least risk.
03-23-2007, 12:08 PM
#45
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I'll make a few more notes here..
Chances are the block will need to be Bored out... .020 or so... But we won't know that until the block is apart.... If you have to bore the block this will mandate the need for new pistons... And the rods will have to be checked or resized if you have spun a bearing..
The cam bearings should be replaced as well as the balance shaft bearings..
The Crank will have to be turned, if you have to cut the crank .020 under, you should consider that crank garbage..
While you have the heads off the heads should be reworked..
Sometimes its almost cheaper to get a decent reman
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Chances are the block will need to be Bored out... .020 or so... But we won't know that until the block is apart.... If you have to bore the block this will mandate the need for new pistons... And the rods will have to be checked or resized if you have spun a bearing..
The cam bearings should be replaced as well as the balance shaft bearings..
The Crank will have to be turned, if you have to cut the crank .020 under, you should consider that crank garbage..
While you have the heads off the heads should be reworked..
Sometimes its almost cheaper to get a decent reman
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03-23-2007, 12:26 PM
#46
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I can't afford the DD down time to rebuild my L67. I have a 93 L27 that ran smooth and quiet, 140k, and no metal. It would need L67 piston and rods. The crank might be alright, but it'* been headless for a year and I know I let some coolant spill in the lifter valley. So I'd rebuild that one, but if mine goes down when I'm in the middle of rebuilding it in my limited time, I'm up a creek. I am having those heads done with new valves, P&P, whatnot.
03-23-2007, 12:32 PM
#47
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Plan for the worst. You will probably, at the lesat, need to re-grind your crank, or worst case, get a new one.
Plan on getting a new cam as well. On my 4.3L cam, where it sits in the journal, it'* grooved to he**
If you can swing it, rebuild it yourself. You'll learn a lot if you have never rebuilt a motor
Plan on getting a new cam as well. On my 4.3L cam, where it sits in the journal, it'* grooved to he**
If you can swing it, rebuild it yourself. You'll learn a lot if you have never rebuilt a motor
03-23-2007, 12:45 PM
#48
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Originally Posted by J Wikoff
I can't afford the DD down time to rebuild my L67. I have a 93 L27 that ran smooth and quiet, 140k, and no metal. It would need L67 piston and rods. The crank might be alright, but it'* been headless for a year and I know I let some coolant spill in the lifter valley. So I'd rebuild that one, but if mine goes down when I'm in the middle of rebuilding it in my limited time, I'm up a creek. I am having those heads done with new valves, P&P, whatnot.
Yes you can build that motor... I have had thoughts of building an L27 bottom end using Forged pistons... That way when I really want to play I would have a strong bottom end... LOL...
What I am wondering here is what the Beefy L27 Wrist Pins and Rods will take... I don't think we have had the chance to set the L27 and L67 rods side by side to see the differences.. Would be very interesting...
But I do see where you are headed..
If you get ther L67 rods where would you get them?
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03-23-2007, 12:48 PM
#49
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Originally Posted by J Wikoff
I can't afford the DD down time to rebuild my L67. I have a 93 L27 that ran smooth and quiet, 140k, and no metal. It would need L67 piston and rods. The crank might be alright, but it'* been headless for a year and I know I let some coolant spill in the lifter valley. So I'd rebuild that one, but if mine goes down when I'm in the middle of rebuilding it in my limited time, I'm up a creek. I am having those heads done with new valves, P&P, whatnot.
You have 2 cars. One is down, the other is the daily driver. The one that has metal in the oil is the daily driver, and you need another engine before it dies completely, right?
I thought the one that was down was the one with the metal in the oil.
I think I gotcha now.
03-23-2007, 01:13 PM
#50
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Yes, a second car with an L27 that is half torn down. I don't know where to get new L67 rods and pistons. I've been looking around but have come up empty handed.
Right now my oil pressure gets to around 20 psi at warm idle, cold it stays above 35ish at idle. Driving, it bounces around between 40 and 65. This is with 15w40. With 10w30, it would get below 15, maybe 12 when idling warm.
Right now my oil pressure gets to around 20 psi at warm idle, cold it stays above 35ish at idle. Driving, it bounces around between 40 and 65. This is with 15w40. With 10w30, it would get below 15, maybe 12 when idling warm.