battery and alt help
#1
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hey yall i was drivin at night w/ my 250 watt rms amp on and my headlights. well my volts were droppin down to 10 so i had to keep the rpms up but the next time i started the car it was very slow moving up to 12 volts. Im afraid i fried my alt.
would i void the warreny by adding a sub n amp???? no missconnctions so no splicing just power robbing device. I am gettinga new dry cell battery tonight to help burry the load but well see tomarrow.
worse comes to worse ill get a new higher alt and a new seprentene belt mines 36,000 miles and a little cracked.
would i void the warreny by adding a sub n amp???? no missconnctions so no splicing just power robbing device. I am gettinga new dry cell battery tonight to help burry the load but well see tomarrow.
worse comes to worse ill get a new higher alt and a new seprentene belt mines 36,000 miles and a little cracked.
#2
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I have the same problem and I don’t have a heavy drain totally stock. It is the alt. they are known for craping out. I would recommend a lifetime warranty unit from Napa or a upgrade to more juice ie.Better grade alt. Higher output. You will notice a drain mostly when the brakes are on while all the lights are on.
#4
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I have the same issues with my 200 watt amp installed. I went to the dealership. The replacement 140 amp alternator is over $300!!!!! There is also a 124 amp version. Either way, screw GM replacement. FXOL with clubgp.com sells a 160amp alternator that is very nice for $210. I am going to get this, next paycheck.
http://store.clubgp.com/itemview.asp?itemid=65
Lee
http://store.clubgp.com/itemview.asp?itemid=65
Lee
#5
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sotck se 105 amp, stock ssei 140 amp. its kinda suprising that you are having problems with only a 250 w rms amp. i wasn't having problems with my 660w rms amp in my 1989 olds 98. your best bet would be to upgrade the alternator, and if you ever plan on upgrading the system to more power, a deep-cell battery. do not get a capacitator, they are not worth it.
-dan
-dan
#6
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I have figured out that my ground on my battery is loose and the bolt going in is stripped. Soo when I move it around the meter changes. So a ground or bad battery or another part of the car that has a short would most likely have the same effect.
I also read somewhere that a bad alternator tends to shoot high and a bad battery/ ground tends to drop.
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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: speedyguy on 2002-05-03 01:09 ]</font>
I also read somewhere that a bad alternator tends to shoot high and a bad battery/ ground tends to drop.
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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: speedyguy on 2002-05-03 01:09 ]</font>
#8
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I am running 450watts RMS and every time I crank it up with the bass my cd player starts to like skip or like speed through the song or if it doesn't do that the amp shuts down. Has any1 had a prob like this b/c i'm wondering if the dash is raddling at certain frequences or the alt isn't putting out enough power so that amp shuts down.
#10
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I do know from from past expeirence that most Alternator/Starter Rebuild shops will custom wind/build you a alternator to fit your power needs! That way you can keep the old case with new upgraded power inside!