1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

I have two issues to deal with.

Old 11-22-2006, 05:24 AM
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Default I have two issues to deal with.

Hey everyone,

My internet has been out so I haven't been able to log on in awhile since my car started acting up.

About 2-3 weeks ago I installed a new heatercore in my 94. The very same day I did that my car had issues starting and running. It has also dies and starts right back up as soon as it happens when I'm driving. I think when I installed the new heatercore I may have knocked some wires loose because this has never happened before. As soon as I hook up to another car for a jump, the sucker starts right up.

I want to say it'* the relay(I think) box right next to the heatercore or the wires near the hoses under the hood. Any ideas?

The second problem since I haven't be able to buy a dang book for the car yet is the inner tie rod on the passenger side. I replaced the outer end last night but the inner is bad as well. I have the part but I have no idea how to remove it or what tool I would need to do so. Could someone explain? Thanks
Old 11-22-2006, 05:47 AM
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inner tie rod -

locate inner tie rod (it'* under the car)
clip metal retaining ring.
slide inner boot outward.
stabilize steering rack (with big pliers, you'll see the flat spots meant for this)
unscrew inner tie rod.
count turn as you unscrew it from outer tie rod.

reinstall.

use plastic zip tie to replace metal clip.


stalling- yes, try jiggling wires next time. Suspect two large connectors on passenger side.
Old 11-22-2006, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Damemorder
inner tie rod -

locate inner tie rod (it'* under the car)
clip metal retaining ring.
slide inner boot outward.
stabilize steering rack (with big pliers, you'll see the flat spots meant for this)
unscrew inner tie rod.
count turn as you unscrew it from outer tie rod.

reinstall.

use plastic zip tie to replace metal clip.
Oh it can't be that simple.....right at this moment I am glad no one here saw how baffled I was at the thing Anyway the outer tie end was very easy.

I sure hope your right about those two connectors. I know I did mess with those when trying to get the heatercore out. I did try to unplug them, but my arm did slip and hit them. Thanks I'll check that as soon as I get home.
Old 11-22-2006, 06:01 AM
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the inner tie rod is tight as f*** btw, might want to eat your wheaties first.

180ft lbs i think.... Just make sure you don't scratch the shiny part under the boot.
Old 11-22-2006, 06:49 AM
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Judging from the outer end, I think the inner maybe just as loose. I'm surprised my car hasn't went into the ditch yet
Old 11-22-2006, 07:10 AM
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got the new one on yet?
Old 11-22-2006, 07:36 AM
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There is actually a special tool for changing an inner tie rod. Please search on Tie rod by poster Bandit.

On the other issue, disconnect the battery and clean the cables at both ends (this will include the cable at the maxifuse panel.
Old 11-22-2006, 08:22 AM
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Found it.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...hlight=tie+rod

That tool isn't needed. I mentioned the large pliers... you grab the actuator arm of the steering rack to isolate rotary forces from the seals and gears in the rack.
Old 11-22-2006, 08:26 AM
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Right Dame.. many things can be done without the right tool for the job. We are recommending the correct tool.

The proper tool for a job usually makes the job is easier to do and ensures other parts are not damaged in the process.

From the sound of it you have no problem doing yours with the pliers, mine didn't go that easily.
Old 11-22-2006, 08:30 AM
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You know... sometimes I forget not everyone can do it.... You're right Bill.

Anyway, If you don't feel comfortable rednecking it, get the special tool. AutoZone will loan it to you.

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