Cranks but, no start
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Cranks but, no start
yesterday my park ave died on me. it ran fine for a couple errands. then i went to start it up later in the day and it wouldn't fire.
i can very clearly hear the fp run. and i have good blue spark. tested at the 3 cyls on the front bank.
i only tested for fuel pressure with pressing the valve. my gauge is leaking badly, so i unkooked it before i could get an exact reading.
is there any othe basic itemor items i have missed, that i can do before i go buy another fuel pressure gauge?
i can very clearly hear the fp run. and i have good blue spark. tested at the 3 cyls on the front bank.
i only tested for fuel pressure with pressing the valve. my gauge is leaking badly, so i unkooked it before i could get an exact reading.
is there any othe basic itemor items i have missed, that i can do before i go buy another fuel pressure gauge?
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Did you press the accelerator a bit while cranking? IAC could be stuck or dead.
One thing that happened to me was a piece of debris got in the harmonic balancer and bent the interrupter vanes, but it did backfire.
One thing that happened to me was a piece of debris got in the harmonic balancer and bent the interrupter vanes, but it did backfire.
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Besides fuel & spark I like to check for fuel injector pulse. You can use a #194 light bulb to check for pulse. After that I'd try unplugging the maf & then the tps. Also check for fuel in the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator.
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Originally Posted by John Deere Boy
Did you press the accelerator a bit while cranking? IAC could be stuck or dead.
One thing that happened to me was a piece of debris got in the harmonic balancer and bent the interrupter vanes, but it did backfire.
One thing that happened to me was a piece of debris got in the harmonic balancer and bent the interrupter vanes, but it did backfire.
and if the crank sensor had no signal, i wouldnt get spark right?
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Besides fuel & spark I like to check for fuel injector pulse. You can use a #194 light bulb to check for pulse. After that I'd try unplugging the maf & then the tps. Also check for fuel in the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator.
now if it had a distributor, i'd be inclined to pull the cap to make sure the rotor is turning. i can just pull the oil cap and crank it to see the rockers move right?
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Originally Posted by samueljackson
i can just pull the oil cap and crank it to see the rockers move right?
You just need to pull the wires away from the base of the 194 light bulb. It'll fit the injector harness quite nicely.
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Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Originally Posted by samueljackson
i can just pull the oil cap and crank it to see the rockers move right?
You just need to pull the wires away from the base of the 194 light bulb. It'll fit the injector harness quite nicely.
but bad news...the rockers were not moving
i did the timing chain last season. i know i torqued the cam gear, but i dont think i used lock tight. i wonder if thats what happened. mannn this is a real bummer.
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Originally Posted by Technical Ted
I think I jinxed you.
thanks for the help, and the 194 tip, thats a good one.
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i got the timing cover off today. the cam bolt was still in the cam, but it was loose. the cam gear was out of place and the wood druff (sp) key was broken.
i spun the cam, everything seems fine, and it doesn't bind or make any odd noise. i took just the front vc off. it looks to be ok.
what else should i do, or look for to ensure there is no damage?
i spun the cam, everything seems fine, and it doesn't bind or make any odd noise. i took just the front vc off. it looks to be ok.
what else should i do, or look for to ensure there is no damage?
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Other than looking for the broken woodruff key, not much else to do but put it back together. Check the interrupter magnet on the back side of the cam gear to see if there is any extra metal attached and to make sure it is in good shape. This is a perfect time to change the magnet if it is not 100%. Inspect the chain and gear teeth carefully for damage. If all is OK, loctite the bolt, torque it properly, button it up and rock on. These are not interference motors, so no piston/valve damage should have occurred.